true true

 

i'm back....I think we finally found a good setup. Race day is the ultimate test, crossing fingers.

178 and 188 jets
no shims
float bowls at 15mm
1.5 turns out on the fuel screws

now it's only 48 degrees right now so it's hard to get the bike temp up to what I like but hopefully she will run strong on Sunday.

Just messing around I was able to wheelie the bike of a stop sign, big improvement from a couple weeks ago and Ira was able to get a wheelie out her by pinning it while in 2nd gear.

I am a little concerned about a small sputter in the high rpm's 10k-11k but it only did it twice.

 

How did your plugs read after a plug chop?

 

what do you mean...what is a plug chop?

 

You mentioned that you had a slight hesitation around 10krpm.
a/f screws are good up to lets say 2500rpm, the spring and needle modulate the midrange, the main jets on the top end.
When you adjusted the float, did you have the carb turned upside down?
Plug Chop is a WFO run, immediately turn the engine off, then pull and read the plugs.

edit: You may be running too fat on top in your main jets. But without reading your plugs, it is hard to determine.

 

to adjust the floats we tilted the carbs first until there was no pressure on the needle. We have not looked at the spark plugs but since you mentioned it we will probably give this a try.

 

Turn the carbs upside down to adjust the floats. Not just tilt them.
Pain in the **** to check plugs but since you are tuning, it is part of the game.

 

sorry about the delays I at the shop and I have customers coming in and out

 

I thought it would compress the spring if we turned the carbs upside down. my Factory sheet says to

"measure from the gasket surface of the carb body to the highest part of the top of the float with the float tang touching but not compressing the float valve spring."

 

hmm, wish I could find my manual after my move. I recollect turning the carbs over fully, adjusting from the surface as you mentioned.