winterizing and more in the cold state of Maine
#1
winterizing and more in the cold state of Maine
I have a 2003 zx6rr that is going to be lonely for awhile. Im curious about ALL the stuff i need to do to winterize it...and summerize it!. Its not going to be touched for 10-11 months (mid August-thats when i come home). Does that even make a difference? It will be in a heated basement but Im sure it gets a little cold. Is it better to store it with an empty tank and stabalizer? or full tank with stabalizer? oil change before, after, or both? Ill take any info or tips, etc. etc. Thanks for your help!
#2
i'd personally either fill the tank with kerosene (don't run the bike!! AHH!! lol)
or do a full tank with a good bit of stabilizer in it and a bunch of techron. this will prevent surface rust and keep the fuel ready to rock in the spring.
maybe someone has another suggestion on that? lol
i'd have to research about a totally dry tank..
water is heavier than gas.. it'll sink to the bottom of the tank should any condensation accumulate.. if it does, the techron should kill it, or at least help with starting when it comes to be that time. i used to winterize my boat (with twin big blocks) with a fuel system full of straight techron and the 125 gallon tanks shot with sta-bil and NEVER had a single problem with it in the spring. those 454's would fire right up.
if you want to do an oil change, go ahead, but personally, i'd just wait til after the winter.. no sense in wasting good oil if all it did is sit in the motor unused..
i'd change it out in the spring just to ensure no case condensation remains..
i'd also shoot a tiny bit of oil down inside the cylinders and give it a few cranks. this keeps rings from rusting and freezing to the bore. the rings can rust to the bore (unless its a nikasil bore..) and shatter as soon as axial load is applied when you go to fire it up. this kills motors fast. bad day..
battery tender-God send.. lol.. take that bad boy out and throw it on a tender.. just, don't sit it on concrete..
i think thats about it.. and after re-reading your post a few time.. instead of "spring" i guess make it summer.. lol
not sure what else to tell ya boss.. hopefully other opinions will seep in..
welcome to KF!!
or do a full tank with a good bit of stabilizer in it and a bunch of techron. this will prevent surface rust and keep the fuel ready to rock in the spring.
maybe someone has another suggestion on that? lol
i'd have to research about a totally dry tank..
water is heavier than gas.. it'll sink to the bottom of the tank should any condensation accumulate.. if it does, the techron should kill it, or at least help with starting when it comes to be that time. i used to winterize my boat (with twin big blocks) with a fuel system full of straight techron and the 125 gallon tanks shot with sta-bil and NEVER had a single problem with it in the spring. those 454's would fire right up.
if you want to do an oil change, go ahead, but personally, i'd just wait til after the winter.. no sense in wasting good oil if all it did is sit in the motor unused..
i'd change it out in the spring just to ensure no case condensation remains..
i'd also shoot a tiny bit of oil down inside the cylinders and give it a few cranks. this keeps rings from rusting and freezing to the bore. the rings can rust to the bore (unless its a nikasil bore..) and shatter as soon as axial load is applied when you go to fire it up. this kills motors fast. bad day..
battery tender-God send.. lol.. take that bad boy out and throw it on a tender.. just, don't sit it on concrete..
i think thats about it.. and after re-reading your post a few time.. instead of "spring" i guess make it summer.. lol
not sure what else to tell ya boss.. hopefully other opinions will seep in..
welcome to KF!!
#3
i've heard of people draining the tank and emptying the bowls- i just fill her up and put stable in the tank. battery tender is a must- +1 whitey. i have a stand to keep my back wheel off the ground cuz i heard it can start to flatten that area. thats about all i do
#4
good point on the tire flat spots.. virtual reps.
i only reccommend havin sta-bil and a full tank for dos reasons.. A. keeps rust down and minimal in the tank, and corrosion in the carbs low, B. it keeps te O-rings and seals a little better thanif they were allowed to dry out..
so Sam.. running with J's idea, (and just for sake of working on your bike in the future) look at maybe getting a pair of stands or geting the thing up off the ground at least with jackstands.. the flat spots will go away, but it'll take a little while and just be annoying for a day of 2..
i only reccommend havin sta-bil and a full tank for dos reasons.. A. keeps rust down and minimal in the tank, and corrosion in the carbs low, B. it keeps te O-rings and seals a little better thanif they were allowed to dry out..
so Sam.. running with J's idea, (and just for sake of working on your bike in the future) look at maybe getting a pair of stands or geting the thing up off the ground at least with jackstands.. the flat spots will go away, but it'll take a little while and just be annoying for a day of 2..
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