I'm planning to change my oil soon.This would my my first oil change on this bike and i would like some help if possible.For example what type
of oiil should i use , what are the steps in changing the oil and how often shoul i do that.The bike is '96 ZX-6R.

 

As far as oil, check your manual but it should be 5w30 and make sure it says on the container that it is "Motorcycle Oil". It's formulated for a motorcycles special wet clutch design. Also get an oil filter, where ever you get the filter should have a book to look up the size.

You should run the the engine until it gets up to normal running temp. Then you need to remove the lower fairing which is probrably 6-8 small bolts. There will be a 16 or 17mm bolt under the oil pan (it's the only large bolt facing down so it's easy to spot), you put a pan under that and remove the bolt. Let all the oil drain out and clean the bolt with a clean rag, once it's drained, put the bolt back and tighten (Be careful not to overtighten. On my 91 ZX-6 I had to loosen the oil cooler bracket and move it a little to be able to remove the filter, on yours you may not need to. Remove the filter, drain the oil in the filter and recycle accordingly.
VERY IMPORTANT: Take the new oil and lube the gasket around the new oil filter before putting it on the bike. Put about 3-1/2 quarts in to the filler. Start up and let warm up and than shut it off for a little cooling time. Get the bike level and check the level of the oil in the viewer window and add accordingly until it is within the two lines.

Change the oil every 3000 miles or 3 months.

Then ride until your arms fall off. [8D]

 

you dont have to use motorcycle oil. I run valvoline racing oil 20-50 in mine

 

I thought motorcycle oil had additives to help prolong the life of a wet clutch, and being that car oil has none it would cause premature clutch wear.

 

Anyone have any experience with the Royal Purple oils?

 

lemac's got it. Don't use regular automotive oil unless you drive a Ducati with a dry clutch setup. On a low torque 600cc bike the clutch wont wear out as fast but it will eventually and the dino oil is to blame.

As far as Royal Purple, I have only used their gear oil in all of my cars and trucks. Never used any motor oil from them, but it is top notch and I would use it if I had an easier way of getting it.

tx, why are you using such a thick/heavy oil. Do you have high miles or just ride in a very hot climate ?

 

Ive been running it for about 3 years on different bikes and never had a problem. Also about 6 other guys other here(all have wet clutches) use the same oil....without any problems. The reason for it....when I start up my bike in the morning...it greets me at 111 degrees usually. Its very hot out here and I burn through oil fast. Oh and as far as the dino oil....its not that it has a additive to protect the wet clutch....its that some oils have a additive that will degrade your clutch causing premature wear.

 

You got it man.... 15w50 full syn mobil 1 in my 10..... 120 degree days, 36,000 miles on my zx10. And just did another 500 miles this weekend. AAAhhhhhh, nice riding weather.

You are right on the additives. The " energy conserving" oils use a additive that will damage the wet clutch. Most thinner oils are that way. 5w30 car oil will ruin a wet clutch.... Check out the owners manulas on your car or truck, and in there it will tell you at what temp different grades of oils will work too.... If I remeber right 5w30 only protects up to 90 degrees...But it is good to sub zero temps. Naturally if you live in Canada, 15w50 or 20w50 would be way to thick. But in our southern climate of everyday 100+ temps, 5w30 is too thin and breaks down too easy.

Royal purple makes a very good product. Also Lucas and Moreys are good products, but the availability makes them tough to be consistent with.

Maybe something everyone can agree on, is 10w40?? If you live in a average climate, do average driving, 10w40 would prob be about perfect for ya. 5w30 is ebergy conserving for just that. It does not say engine saver on the bottle, it says energy conserving. The oil does not protect as good, but manufacturers have to meet MPG standards and one way they cheat is with 5w30 "energy conserving" oil.. Porsche just got fined for not meeting the MPG standard.

 

"...Any 5W-30 engine oil, including the synthetic in C5s, uses chemical additives, called "viscosity-index (VI) improvers", to widen its viscosity range enough to make it a 5W-30. VI improvers contribute little to lubrication and can make a "multi-vis" oil less effective at high temperatures than an oil without them. This can become a problem when the oil is under high shear loads at temperatures above 225¡F. It becomes a potentially damaging problem when oil temp. approaches 300¡F. If your oil temperature in the pan is 250¡F or above, bet that oil temp in bearings is approaching 300¡. Near the piston ring lands and the upper sections of the cylinder walls, it is that or above.


Another characteristic of a 5W-30 that can be a problem in severe service is a relatively high evaporation rate at high temperatures compared to lubricants of more narrow viscosity range. A higher evaporation rate contributes to increased oil consumption and substandard lubrication in areas of high temperature." http://www.saabnet.com/aas/1999.W51/...94.260766.html

 

I know my dealership used 10-40 motorcycle oil...and I need to redo the oil change this weekend. It breaks down too fast....less than 1000 miles on it.