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  #31  
Old 08-23-2006 | 06:57 AM
FuryofGreen's Avatar
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Default RE: Oil

i have no clue anymore. what day is it?
 
  #32  
Old 08-23-2006 | 07:27 PM
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ORIGINAL: movin_up

Should I run semi-syn since I dont have that many miles (2300)....whats a good mileage 2 start semi or full???
If you plan on running a full synthetic oil, than you should change to it as soon as possible. At 500 miles I changed the oil to Full Synthtic Mobil 1 oil and plan on using it from now on. The later you wait the more your engine will break-in with normal oil tolerances. Once you switch to full sythetic, the tolerances could have already set too wide and the full sythetic oil will be too thin.
 
  #33  
Old 08-24-2006 | 12:24 AM
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Default RE: Oil

I went to full synthetic at a little over 3000 miles. You don't have to go semi-synthetic. The oil viscocity is a set standard. Regular mineral based oils & synthetics of the same (SAE 10W40) weight are the same except the synthetic doesn't break down as fast, has better lubrication qualities and withstands higher temperatures. Actually, A looser engine will put out more horsepower due to less internal friction and the synthetic oils will only help.
 
  #34  
Old 08-24-2006 | 06:18 AM
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ORIGINAL: speedracer138
Actually, A looser engine will put out more horsepower due to less internal friction and the synthetic oils will only help.
Less friction where? A looser engine (not properly broken in) will allow blow-by at the piston rings and the intake/exhaust valves with allow leaks that diminish power. Perform a leak-down test on a "loose" engine and you will see just how much power you are loosing. A dino oil and sythetic oil start out at the same weight and viscosity, but after 1000 miles or so, the dino oil will be broken down and will have lost most of it's viscosity and the weight will be about as thick as water. That is what I meant about different tolerances. The sythetic will stay the same weight/viscosity for the rated mileage.
 
  #35  
Old 08-24-2006 | 06:34 AM
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Default RE: Oil

I'm not saying THAT LOOSE. A little looser than when NEW with a few thousand miles. All the racebikes use a lot looser tolerances than normal for less drag & more horsepower. As long as the rings seal good, there won't be any blowby. My bike seems more powerful now that when I first got it and the dyno results have proven that with other bikes as well. Same exact bike, same mods (no changes) except for more mileage.
 
  #36  
Old 08-25-2006 | 04:51 AM
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Default RE: Oil

Heavens, thanks for all the responses folks, really helping me out. After reading everyone's posts I've decided to go with a "Regular" Full Synthetic along the lines of Mobile1 10W-40. It's going to start getting colder soon and I think the 10W40 won't break down as easy. I don't mind changing oil for the things I ride/drive, and I'm going to have to drain the bike for when I put it in storage when I deploy in May of 07' -- so it should last. I wrecked my bike with 160 miles on the odometer so I think it's safe to introduce the synthetic. In case you guys forgot I bashed my Alternator Cover (<--avatar picture) open and all the oil came pouring out... s'why I need to add some oil to my bike.
 
  #37  
Old 08-25-2006 | 05:02 AM
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Default RE: Oil

Get that cover replaced or fixed if you haven't already. It's dangerous and bad for the bike also. You can get sand & crap in there and it'll start to wear things out.
 
  #38  
Old 08-25-2006 | 09:49 AM
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Default RE: Oil

ORIGINAL: speedracer138

I'm not saying THAT LOOSE. A little looser than when NEW with a few thousand miles. All the racebikes use a lot looser tolerances than normal for less drag & more horsepower. As long as the rings seal good, there won't be any blowby. My bike seems more powerful now that when I first got it and the dyno results have proven that with other bikes as well. Same exact bike, same mods (no changes) except for more mileage.
+1
 
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