I was wondering if anyone had some tips on making a nice cut on the left fairing (05 636) for a frame slider. Doesnt look like a hole cutter would work because its toward the edge of the fairing. I do have a dremel but am afraid I will melt the plastic or just make a really ugly cut. Thanks

 

well what you could do is buy some vortex frame sliders and that way you dont have to cut anything......so much simpler......

 

I just looked up the sliders at vortex site and it says there is body mod on the left side for the 05 636? Help me out.

 

Yes, the left side panel needs to be trimmed, I even had to trim the right side slightly.

I took a few pictures of the tool I used to remove the material needed. It is basicly an 1 inch grinding wheel that I used in a dry wall cutter. A drill will work also, but it will just take longer. Even a small dremel tool will work fine. MAKE SURE you have a good grip on the tool and remove the material slowly! If you remove too much, or slip, you will put a gouge in your body work. Remember, you can remove material but if you take too much off, there is no going back (God, I sound like a shop instructor).

Do one side at a time, start by removing the engine bolt, place the slider on the panel and eye ball it to where the center is (where the bolt was removed). Next use a marker to make a reference line around the slider (see pictures).

I have my bike apart and took some pictures of the already modified panels, I also took a picture of the race bodywork and how to draw a reference mark on the panel. By reference means, it is there to use as a guide, but you may have to grind more or less past the line. Slowly remove material and then stop and check the fit of the slider to see where more material needs to be removed. GO SLOWLY, take your time!! The plastic will like melt as the wheel hits it. Keep the heat down so the paint will not bubble, make sure you keep in control of the tool to advoid damaging the panel. I usually cut enough material to leave about an 1/8 inch clearence between slider and panel.

The last picture is of the right Vortex frame slider after a high speed low side, it bent the bolt and base. So much for just replacing the slider.

Mike

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Man that's awsome. That's a great help thanx. did you use a torque wrench when putting the engine bolts back in?

 

Every bolt has a torque value. This value is arrived by the grade of the bolt and the material it is clamping together. You should use a torque wrench when ever possible. Did I use a torque wrench, No, but I have been wrenching on cars for over 28 years and have more of a feel for torque than someone new at the game. When I do more critical assembles (engines, transmissions, even wheel torque) I always use a torque wrench (have five torque wrenches at work, two at home).

I do not have a shop manual and that is where you should get the torque specs. How ever, here is a general torque chart for high grade bolts. This is just an estimate, if your bolts go into aluminum the torque values will be lower. Use the factory manual first!

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ed-Torque.aspx

And you may need a conversion chart from NM to Ft lbs. go to the bottom of this page. http://www.tdiclub.com/misc/conversions.html

I plugged in 10mm which is the bolt diameter and used the 8.8 bolt grade, I came up with a torque of 55 NM., I then went to the conversion chart and 55NM comes out to aprox. 40 ft. lbs.

Hopefully someone on this list has a factory manual with the factory torque figure.

Hope this helps,
Mike

 

Thanks for the great tips, images and all! Thats the kind of instructions it should come with.

 

I have a real problem with whittling away on the fairings on my bike. They are too expensive to replace and if you don't do it right it will show. I found some (Carbon Fiber Inlay Frame Sliders) at 58cycle.com that are no cut. They have a nice selection of accessories to go with them to give a real kewl custom look. The bolt is off set. I'm wondering how much protection they would offer. Cuz if they aren't gonna help any I think frame sliders look like those foot pegs on my kid's bike and I really don't want something cheesy on my $10,000 bike. You know what I mean???

 

Don't go for the no cut frame sliders. My friend went down the other day and he had those slider on his bike and it did more damage than if he wouldn't have had them at all. His faring was scratched cracked from where the bolt holding the frame slider to the motor snapped off and went throught the faring. Needless to say he's pretty upset that he got those things.

 

I bought the Carbon Fiber Inley Frame Sliders from 58cycle.com and had the same concern. Well, my wife gave me the answer, she dropped the bike and the fairings where intact. Keep in mind she was making an U-turn at about 5mph (almost standing still) but hey! they save my bike.