Break-in secrets!
#11
RE: Break-in secrets!
ORIGINAL: xrider
Both procedures recommend warming the engine up well to elliminate an oil starvation related failure. If you get scaring of some type that is more likely a symptom of a whole other problem which should be covered under the warrenty.
Both procedures recommend warming the engine up well to elliminate an oil starvation related failure. If you get scaring of some type that is more likely a symptom of a whole other problem which should be covered under the warrenty.
#13
RE: Break-in secrets!
I do not know... I am sure everyone has there own way of doing beak in, and they all probably work good...I used to be an ASE tech a while back and have rebuilt maybe 40-50 motors, including a dozen or so bike motors, and I broke them all in the same way... I always felt the first 100 miles is the most important on break in....As soon as the motor is installed, first most important break in, in my opinion anyway, is the cams. Take that first 5-10 miles easy. Then get on the road and vary your speed and rpm between 15-20 mile per hour. Do not run at a constant speed or rpm. I'll do this for another 20 miles or so, and then change the oil and filter. The next 500 miles or so. is average to mild aggresive driving, without too much idling time. Then another oil change...Always let the engine warm up, before leaving....That has always worked well for me...I put over 50k on an old Honda twin that way, and over 200K on an old Toyota 22r on some personal vehicles... I do not run full syn until at least 10,000 on a car, and at least 3k on a bike.
Like I said, everybody has their own way. Breaking in a motor, is like politics or religion......lol lol
Like I said, everybody has their own way. Breaking in a motor, is like politics or religion......lol lol
#15
RE: Break-in secrets!
The way I broke in my race-bike engines were at the racetrack. Change the oil often with a new engine. I think the reason the factory recommends a long slow break-in is due to the freshly manufactured parts that havent worn in together especially the transmission gears. Since our bikes use the same tranny oil as the engine, there are a lot of metal particles in the oil during initial break-in but lessen as you put on the miles so you can seat the rings. Higher RPM, higher pressures against the rings. After a rebuild of an engine with more miles, you don't have to be as careful watching the rpm, because most of the parts have already worn in together so you can rev higher sooner. Even with my 03 which had only 51 miles when I bought it, I took it up to redline a few times within the 1000 miles I put on from Minnesota. However, I kept varying the RPM's and tried not to keep it at a fixed rpm as much as I could. The bike runs very strong and does not burn any oil. It seems to be getting faster & more powerful as the motor is loosening up also. The bike has 5000 miles & I am currently running Mobil1 5W40 synthetic oil.
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