Here is a page that lists how to break in a bike and gives a good amount of examples of how this technique effects the parts (mostly piston seal issues). What do you guys think?

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

ehhh....sounds fishy to me

 

You mean "smells fishy". I mean the idea of this article having a sound of a fish would be strange but I'll open it again with my sound turned way up. And "smelling fishy"? Well maybe you ate some fish and it dropped on the keyboard?

Sorry, it's late and I have been reading "Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy" which sets my humor for a while afterwards. Pretty good book which I hardly give justice to in my attempts at similar humor.

His arguments make sense and I can not imagine why someone would set about to purposely ruin people's engines while posting a picture of themselves. I mean there are sick people out there that try to hurt you but they tend to do it more when no one is looking than straight in everyone’s face. If you register there are other really good articles that are intended to help readers (registration is painless like this site was). One is the cutoff switch located on some bikes that turn the engine off but can cause major accidents on the track (the switch gets fooled by violent bike shakes that kill the engine thereby making the bike a hazard). Another is a trick he started of aiming the side exhaust into the draft of the bike instead of letting it blow straight out along side the bike in its own stream. I'll try to find some things that disprove him tomorrow.

 

I have been around all manner of racers and have heard all the arguments about break-in. The one thing that is universal is change oil early and often to rid of metal that can do bad things in the wrong places. I had to rebuild a toyota motor that someone tore up by breaking a piece of plastic off in it. The plastic got in the number 3 connecting rod bearing journal and completely destroyed the bearing rod and crank journal. The only thing I can add is that the factory has a lot of money in research and development on these sorts of things so I tend to believe them!!!! Besides they gave me a warranty didn't they?

 

tex i agress....and yes i meant smells fishy. I rather doubt this guy has spent anywhere near what even one of the manufactuers have spent on research. And he doesnt offer any guarantees on the engine. Also when he said the assembly tech at the dealership rode it hard to the test ride...I can say that mine didnt.

 

Thanks for not taking lasts nights reply too seriously.

The reason he gave for why manufactures give such a wimpy break in procedure was more for the rider to adjust to the bike. It's a play on a scare tactic of requiring some lengthy break in period which certainly keeps the average overzealous rider somewhat at bay for a period of adjustment. He stated that people who have visited the factory say they see them gun the engines to redline right after assembly. Why would they do that if it was so important to keep the rpm down? The long break in gives them a better leg to stand on if they get sued. They can say the bike was working flawlessly until the rider got over zealous.

The second reason was all the real testing on break in was done a long time ago on bombers, before the new lighter honing process. The old deep honing process certainly benefited from a long break in but when the honing changed the break in technique was never readjusted.

His final reason was much less plausible but rings somewhat true. He states the obvious fact that these companies need to sell new bikes and parts. If you tell people how to get much less wear on a part well you probably just cut your repair and sales way down.

I will try and find something that disproves his statements.

 

I found an article for aircraft engine break-in (written by the Cessna Pilots Association no less) that confirms Motomans procedure. It has a little more airplane fuel trimming and height variances but they are both very much the same. The term "***** to the Wall" came from aircraft flying and is mentioned the best way to do the long break-in portion (there are shorter procedures that are done first. These are done mainly to ensure the engine doesn't have other problems and may cause loss of power while in the air).

Sweet! I don't know but I would think that what works for planes, that have little margin for error, must be good for other engines.

http://www.cessna.org/benefits/articles/breakin.html

 

His theory is true to a point, but what happens if you scar a cylinder wall or piston or spin a bearring because we couldnt follow it correctly. How are you going to explain the excessive wear at such low miles. I'm not contesting his way of break in, its just that not everyone can do that or have the know how. There is to many varibles for failure that way if you dont follow the procedure correctly. Thats why the manual states the least way possible to hurt your engine. I do also agree with the oil change and no synthetics while your doing the break in and a few miles past. Anyways either way will work and I'm curtin a new procedure will appear in the near future. Good luck to those who try either one.

 

Both procedures recommend warming the engine up well to elliminate an oil starvation related failure. If you get scaring of some type that is more likely a symptom of a whole other problem which should be covered under the warrenty.

 

did some history research and rynninger had this same thread a year ago. It is on page 18 and might answer some ?s.