brake bleeding is fun!
#1
07-28-2007, 01:37 AM
brake bleeding is fun!
for those of you newbies bike mechanics...like myself...when you go to swap burned up fluid in your brakes...keep in mind there is a black rubber thing in there. chances are it is pushed down into the reservoir and you might think it is where you add fluid...it isnt. i filled it up and then proceeded to drain my brakes. ended up completely draining the system and getting air all in the lines. lol. imma retard. so after hours and hours of bleeding...actually 3 seperate sessions...i am getting close to getting all the air out. takes lots of patience and a chair is almost a requirement. now that i have all this done...now i can do it again when i put on the galfer lines...lol
you would think they would invent some type of pumping, closed line system to force the fluid and remove the air..i did buy a vacuum pump. that helped make it easier...but it still took a long time. you know...the same device they use on radiators? oh well..good lesson learned. i can drain the system like a machine now. the brown rears took me all of 10 min.
Peace!
you would think they would invent some type of pumping, closed line system to force the fluid and remove the air..i did buy a vacuum pump. that helped make it easier...but it still took a long time. you know...the same device they use on radiators? oh well..good lesson learned. i can drain the system like a machine now. the brown rears took me all of 10 min.
Peace!
#4
07-28-2007, 07:44 AM
RE: brake bleeding is fun!
I know about the rubber diaphragm you are talking about. It does get sucked into the reservoir as the fluid gets low. Never made the mistake of adding fluid on top of it though.
I'm still trying to bleed out the brakes on the Honda that will probably never leave my garage.[:'(] I have pressure bled them, vacuum bled them, and crack-bled the line up at the M/C with no progression in lever stiffness. All ready have gone through a quart of brake fluid. It's getting ridiculous![:@]
I'm still trying to bleed out the brakes on the Honda that will probably never leave my garage.[:'(] I have pressure bled them, vacuum bled them, and crack-bled the line up at the M/C with no progression in lever stiffness. All ready have gone through a quart of brake fluid. It's getting ridiculous![:@]
#5
07-28-2007, 09:53 AM
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ft. Gordon (Augusta) GA
Posts: 8,268
RE: brake bleeding is fun!
I had a friend that did that to his car... tried adding brake fluid on top of the diaphram. The only reason the diaphram is there is to alert you to a brake fluid leak.
Vic
Vic
#6
07-28-2007, 03:07 PM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 21,060
RE: brake bleeding is fun!
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Copy and paste from a good site I found.
Put the vacuum bleeder aside and bleed the brakes the common way. Vacuum bleeders sometimes are more troublesome than efficient. Allow the master cylinder to purge the system for best results. This may be slow and painful, but this is how we do it.
To begin, you will flush the existing brake fluid from the reservoir. You'll pump it through the lines, to the bleeder valves. Flush thoroughly until you see fresh fluid exit each valve. Start with the closest bleeder valve when flushing and work away from the master cylinder to the next furthest valve. When flushing, pump the lever a few times and hold, crack the bleeder wide open and leave it open. Begin pumping until you see fresh fluid at the bleeder. When you see the fresh fluid, hold the lever in on the last pump, tighten the valve, pump the lever, and crack the valve for a quick bleed. Repeat for all bleeders. You may not need to bleed the system after the last valve is flushed.
If bleeding is necessary, bleed the system by starting with the furthest bleeder valve and work towards the master cylinder (just the opposite of flushing).
If you must bleed the master cylinder (rarely) do the following: adjust the master cylinder so it is as level as possible on the handlebar. Remove the reservoir cap assembly and top off fluid to proper level. Very, very, slowly pull the brake lever in while monitoring the intake/exhaust ports in the bottom of the reservoir. Return the lever slowly, too. Alternate lever pulls of about 1-2mm and full pulls. The short pulls seem to work the air up best. Look for air bubbles to rise from the ports. Repeat until no air is seen or lever feels normal.
If no air is seen, pull the lever in and let it return quickly by releasing it from your fingertips. It should quickly snap back under the plunger spring's pressure. Repeat this several times while watching for air bubbles. Switch between the two methods described above: slow short pull method and long quick release method. If no air is observed either way, the master cylinder is purged of air. If you observed air bubbles, even one, repeat methods until no air is observed. This may take several minutes, be patient.
Tip: Shake or gently tap brake hoses with a tool to send residual air up the lines to the master cylinder.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycl...bleeding-2.htm
I bookmarked it for future reference.
Copy and paste from a good site I found.
Put the vacuum bleeder aside and bleed the brakes the common way. Vacuum bleeders sometimes are more troublesome than efficient. Allow the master cylinder to purge the system for best results. This may be slow and painful, but this is how we do it.
To begin, you will flush the existing brake fluid from the reservoir. You'll pump it through the lines, to the bleeder valves. Flush thoroughly until you see fresh fluid exit each valve. Start with the closest bleeder valve when flushing and work away from the master cylinder to the next furthest valve. When flushing, pump the lever a few times and hold, crack the bleeder wide open and leave it open. Begin pumping until you see fresh fluid at the bleeder. When you see the fresh fluid, hold the lever in on the last pump, tighten the valve, pump the lever, and crack the valve for a quick bleed. Repeat for all bleeders. You may not need to bleed the system after the last valve is flushed.
If bleeding is necessary, bleed the system by starting with the furthest bleeder valve and work towards the master cylinder (just the opposite of flushing).
If you must bleed the master cylinder (rarely) do the following: adjust the master cylinder so it is as level as possible on the handlebar. Remove the reservoir cap assembly and top off fluid to proper level. Very, very, slowly pull the brake lever in while monitoring the intake/exhaust ports in the bottom of the reservoir. Return the lever slowly, too. Alternate lever pulls of about 1-2mm and full pulls. The short pulls seem to work the air up best. Look for air bubbles to rise from the ports. Repeat until no air is seen or lever feels normal.
If no air is seen, pull the lever in and let it return quickly by releasing it from your fingertips. It should quickly snap back under the plunger spring's pressure. Repeat this several times while watching for air bubbles. Switch between the two methods described above: slow short pull method and long quick release method. If no air is observed either way, the master cylinder is purged of air. If you observed air bubbles, even one, repeat methods until no air is observed. This may take several minutes, be patient.
Tip: Shake or gently tap brake hoses with a tool to send residual air up the lines to the master cylinder.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycl...bleeding-2.htm
I bookmarked it for future reference.
#7
07-28-2007, 04:38 PM
RE: brake bleeding is fun!
i heard about these. i will definately have to get me some. very cool!
ORIGINAL: deej
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Copy and paste from a good site I found.
Put the vacuum bleeder aside and bleed the brakes the common way. Vacuum bleeders sometimes are more troublesome than efficient. Allow the master cylinder to purge the system for best results. This may be slow and painful, but this is how we do it.
To begin, you will flush the existing brake fluid from the reservoir. You'll pump it through the lines, to the bleeder valves. Flush thoroughly until you see fresh fluid exit each valve. Start with the closest bleeder valve when flushing and work away from the master cylinder to the next furthest valve. When flushing, pump the lever a few times and hold, crack the bleeder wide open and leave it open. Begin pumping until you see fresh fluid at the bleeder. When you see the fresh fluid, hold the lever in on the last pump, tighten the valve, pump the lever, and crack the valve for a quick bleed. Repeat for all bleeders. You may not need to bleed the system after the last valve is flushed.
If bleeding is necessary, bleed the system by starting with the furthest bleeder valve and work towards the master cylinder (just the opposite of flushing).
If you must bleed the master cylinder (rarely) do the following: adjust the master cylinder so it is as level as possible on the handlebar. Remove the reservoir cap assembly and top off fluid to proper level. Very, very, slowly pull the brake lever in while monitoring the intake/exhaust ports in the bottom of the reservoir. Return the lever slowly, too. Alternate lever pulls of about 1-2mm and full pulls. The short pulls seem to work the air up best. Look for air bubbles to rise from the ports. Repeat until no air is seen or lever feels normal.
If no air is seen, pull the lever in and let it return quickly by releasing it from your fingertips. It should quickly snap back under the plunger spring's pressure. Repeat this several times while watching for air bubbles. Switch between the two methods described above: slow short pull method and long quick release method. If no air is observed either way, the master cylinder is purged of air. If you observed air bubbles, even one, repeat methods until no air is observed. This may take several minutes, be patient.
Tip: Shake or gently tap brake hoses with a tool to send residual air up the lines to the master cylinder.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycl...bleeding-2.htm
I bookmarked it for future reference.
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Copy and paste from a good site I found.
Put the vacuum bleeder aside and bleed the brakes the common way. Vacuum bleeders sometimes are more troublesome than efficient. Allow the master cylinder to purge the system for best results. This may be slow and painful, but this is how we do it.
To begin, you will flush the existing brake fluid from the reservoir. You'll pump it through the lines, to the bleeder valves. Flush thoroughly until you see fresh fluid exit each valve. Start with the closest bleeder valve when flushing and work away from the master cylinder to the next furthest valve. When flushing, pump the lever a few times and hold, crack the bleeder wide open and leave it open. Begin pumping until you see fresh fluid at the bleeder. When you see the fresh fluid, hold the lever in on the last pump, tighten the valve, pump the lever, and crack the valve for a quick bleed. Repeat for all bleeders. You may not need to bleed the system after the last valve is flushed.
If bleeding is necessary, bleed the system by starting with the furthest bleeder valve and work towards the master cylinder (just the opposite of flushing).
If you must bleed the master cylinder (rarely) do the following: adjust the master cylinder so it is as level as possible on the handlebar. Remove the reservoir cap assembly and top off fluid to proper level. Very, very, slowly pull the brake lever in while monitoring the intake/exhaust ports in the bottom of the reservoir. Return the lever slowly, too. Alternate lever pulls of about 1-2mm and full pulls. The short pulls seem to work the air up best. Look for air bubbles to rise from the ports. Repeat until no air is seen or lever feels normal.
If no air is seen, pull the lever in and let it return quickly by releasing it from your fingertips. It should quickly snap back under the plunger spring's pressure. Repeat this several times while watching for air bubbles. Switch between the two methods described above: slow short pull method and long quick release method. If no air is observed either way, the master cylinder is purged of air. If you observed air bubbles, even one, repeat methods until no air is observed. This may take several minutes, be patient.
Tip: Shake or gently tap brake hoses with a tool to send residual air up the lines to the master cylinder.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycl...bleeding-2.htm
I bookmarked it for future reference.
#8
07-28-2007, 08:04 PM
RE: brake bleeding is fun!
I used to use a MityVac on my brakes, but it is a PITA and it's messy. I've gone another vacume type route with better success. I use a BIG syringe. Hook a clear hose to the end of it and to the caliper, pull back on the plunger of the syringe and crack the bleeder valve. I can control better how fast the fluid flows this way. When the syringe is full, I close the bleeder and shoot the fluid into a just that has some cat litter in it.
#10
07-28-2007, 10:09 PM
RE: brake bleeding is fun!
the best thing to do if you get air in the lines and bleading is not getting you a good lever feel.. Tap on the bango fittings as you are bleading
I know a lot of the time if there is air in the system it likes to hold up there.. vacing the system and pressure bleading sometimes doesnt get the air in that area
I know a lot of the time if there is air in the system it likes to hold up there.. vacing the system and pressure bleading sometimes doesnt get the air in that area