No, I am saying that if the wiring is strong enough to run 55w bulbs at 12v, then it can easily power a 36w heater. Think of the Amps (current) as the flow rate of water through a pipe. If the "pipe" (wire) can flow at a current of 4.6 amps, it can handle 3 amps just as well. Hook it to the blue wire and ground it out, mount the switch and be happy.

 

are you saying the headlight (which-ever i choose) and the heater can be on at the same time?

 

You can T-tap off theRED tail-light wire from the ignition switch. Check it first with a test light to see if it turns off with the switch off (It should).

 

The taillight wire might be a better idea. The headlight would be easier but it will only have power when that high/low lightis on. If you run it to the red taillight wire it will be powered when the key is in ON or PARK. It looks like you can run it to the blue wire to only have power when the ingnition is ON. Of course, test them with a meter or test light first. Both headlights and taillights are 10A fused so it wont be a problem tapping them for juice.

 

good idea! the running (tail) light is perfect. it also feed the license plate light, but between the two, they only draw 10 watts. it is still on a 10 amp fuse like the headlight, but uses less, leaving more for my heaters. the best part is the same wire for the running brake light i routed to the front of the bike and dead-ends into the plug that serves the headlights. (i think kawi did this for applications just like mine)

thanks all!
ready to go riding with warm hand today!
(it's 52 in pdx)

 

Actually they did that for the Euro running light that went in the top corners of the headlights but the US models don't use them.

 

interesting! it worked perfectly for warmers.

were you then one talking about riding with litre-plus bikes in second? rad! i swear the 636 is the "little bike that could"