Hi everbody. Im a newbee. i have a problem i went to start my 636 the other day and it started fine. Then it idle down to a stop. I tried to start it back up but it wont turn over. Everything works as normal but it just keeps cranking. I drain the gas and put new gas in. Any ideas?

 

is the FI light on? One thing that always got me is check the kill switch. I know it sounds stupid but i must've had that one stump me for a good 30 minutes.

Did it have bad gas in it? if so you might have a clogged fuel filter, pump, or injector. Also check you spark plugs.

 

The fuel injectiong is working because i started up when i disconnected the fuel line,gas started to come out. im going to checkthe spark plugs tomorrow. The FI light is on after itry crank it. The bad gas was the first thing i checked for, i thought there was water in it.

 

well that means that your fuel pump is working but not necessarily your fuel injectors.....

but anyways try puttinng the bike into a dealer mode to pull a code. Here's some instructions for an 05 ZX6R. I would imagine that they would be the same for an 06 also. The self diagnosis terminal is under the seat. It should be a wire with a boot that isn't connected to anything. If you get a code and let me know than i'll tell you what it means and what to check.

Self-diagnosis Outline

The self-diagnosis system has three modes and can be

switched to another mode by grounding the self-diagnosis

terminal [A].

User Mode

The ECU notifies the rider of troubles in DFI system and

ignition system by lighting the FI indicator when DFI system

and ignition system parts are faulty, and initiates fail-safe

function. In case of serious troubles ECU stops the injection/

ignition/starter motor operation.

Dealer Mode 1

The FI indicator light (LED) emits service code(s) to show

the problem(s) which the DFI system and ignition system

has at the moment of diagnosis.

Dealer Mode 2

The FI indicator light (LED) emits service code(s) to show

the problem(s) which the DFI system and ignition system

has at the moment of diagnosis.

Self-diagnosis Procedures

system, the DFI indicator light (LED) [A] goes on.

NOTE

â—‹

Use a fully charged battery when conducting

self-diagnosis. Otherwise, the light (LED) blinks

very slowly or doesn’t blink.

â—‹

Keep the self-diagnosis terminal grounded during self

-diagnosis, with a auxiliary lead.

•

Frame chapter) and pull the self-diagnosis terminal [G].

-diagnosis terminal.

self-diagnosis terminal for more than 2 seconds [C], and

then keep it grounded continuously [D].

code. Keep the auxiliary lead ground until you finish reading

the service code.

To enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode 2 repeat opening

[B] and grounding [A] the lead more than five times [F]

within 2 seconds [C] after the lead is first grounded, and

then keep it grounded continuously [D] for more than 2

seconds.

Self-diagnosis Terminal [G]

â—‹Count the blinks of the light (LED) to read the service

code. Keep the auxiliary lead [E] ground until you finish

reading the service code.

NOTE

â—‹

If the self-diagnosis mode is in dealer mode 1 then you

need to enter the dealer mode 2, turn off the ignition

switch once.

 

Check and make sure the battery is fully charged &connections are good. What year is your636. Some 05-06's had TPS problems that required replacement of the throttle bodies. Try spraying some starting fluid in theRam-Air intake and see if it starts. I know the 03-04's have a choke leverbut the 05-06's a Auto Choke.

 

Its a2006. If it was the battery wouldnt just be clicking when i try to start it. The bike started than it just died. It just keeps cranking. could it be spark plugs

 

Kevin, to answer your last post... the battery may turn the starter but may not have enough juice to energize the starter coils. My suggestion is to test the battery using a voltmeter. If the battery measures below 11.5 than youshould change the battery. If above 11.5...charge the battery for about 13 hoursand test it using the voltmeter 2 hours aftercompleteing thecharge.The battery should be measure 12.8 or above (13 max)to befully charged.Use the voltmeter while attempting to start the bike. If the voltmeter measurement drops below 11.6 when attempting to start, thenthe battery is junk. Similarily, I am experiencing a "wont start problem" with the same year and model bike... 2006 Kawasaki Ninja 636 zx-6r Titanium Special Edition with only 2500 miles.The difference... The last owner sat the bike for 1 year.

Voltmeter from a local parts store costs approx 15 bucks. Should you decide to purchase a new battery keep in mind thatthey do not come charged. I did not know this as I purchased a new battery for the first time.

Relating to my situation, here is what I have done so far...
Drained the gas
Changed plugs
Changed the air filter
Verifiedthe fuel bowls are clear
Verifiedinjectors are clean

At first I tried using the battery that came with the bike which was a new replacement1 year ago. It waschargedfor 13 hours using a drip charger as recommended by Yuasa. When I tried to fire up the bike there was not enough juice toturn the engine so I swapped out the battery with a new one. With the newly charged battery I've tried to start the bike however when pressing starter button (cutoff switch in proper position) the engine turns and muffler blows to a point where anyone would think the bike will turn on but... when I let go of the button I am left standing with a dead bike. If I hold the button for longer, the starter starts to freak out becausethe engine is turning faster than the starter.

Has anyone come across this situation where the bike will not remain on?

I'm thinking its a sensor or electrical problemhowever I do not have a manual to identifyhow toput the bike intodiagnostics mode.

Any thoughts anyone? Any help would be appreciated.

If anyone has a manual in pdf form, please feel free to email it to jesse.r.rodriguez@gmail.com


Patiently Waiting to Ride,
Titan636

 

Try spraying starting fluid in the Ram-Air intake while cranking. You will know if it's a fuel or ignition problem. Check your ECU fuse and the rest of the fuses. Make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. They do corrode and cause a bad connection.

 

Starter Fluid did the trick. It took a hand full of times of cranking along with holding the throttle open and turning thekey to on position to primethewith fuel justto get her to stay on but she is on and has given me the first ride of this season. Much thanks SpeedRacer.

The wait is over,
Titan636

 

Go get some RXP and put it in the tank ASAP.