who puts a bike together with zip ties?
#1
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Seriously, fairings, cowling, headlight... all zip tied on. WTF. Oh, so I got bored last night and since I won't have my license for another 2 months I dismantled my bike. ( I only set out to determine the cause of my faster-than-stock left blinker... there was a loose wire, but I got a lil carried away) I've got half a mind to strap a generic headlight to the forks and drive it around naked for a while... probabaly a bad idea.
so anyways, the reason for this post, are the screws for the instrument bezel, fairings, taillight, etc. all the same screw? Will I be able to get away with trying to match some of the 10mm bolts for the front cowling and headlight with the stock they have al home depot or do I need kawi replacements? There is only 1 screw holding each side fairing im place, and 4 zip ties holding on the ~$500 lower cowl from targa. Doesn't seen like a good way to protect an investment. I've got the mounting kit for that from targa, but the rest of the bike needs help.
Also, when I shift into first from standing still I get a pretty hard 'clunk' and the bike lunges a little. what is the remedy for that? I thought it odd last night when I was rolling the bike around in the garage that the rear wheel was locked even with the clutch engaged and the tranny in 1st. shouldn't I be able to roll the bike freely with the cluth engaged even in gear?
Thanks everyone.
-Joe
so anyways, the reason for this post, are the screws for the instrument bezel, fairings, taillight, etc. all the same screw? Will I be able to get away with trying to match some of the 10mm bolts for the front cowling and headlight with the stock they have al home depot or do I need kawi replacements? There is only 1 screw holding each side fairing im place, and 4 zip ties holding on the ~$500 lower cowl from targa. Doesn't seen like a good way to protect an investment. I've got the mounting kit for that from targa, but the rest of the bike needs help.
Also, when I shift into first from standing still I get a pretty hard 'clunk' and the bike lunges a little. what is the remedy for that? I thought it odd last night when I was rolling the bike around in the garage that the rear wheel was locked even with the clutch engaged and the tranny in 1st. shouldn't I be able to roll the bike freely with the cluth engaged even in gear?
Thanks everyone.
-Joe
#2
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ive used zip ties to hold plastic together when the tabs break off.[&:]when you don't want too spend any more money on a bike your not going tokeep forever.and yeah you should be able too move the bike freely when in gear and clutch pulled.
#3
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Zip ties are for loose wires & cables, not for structural stuff or anything weighing more than half a pound.
Some of the stainless-steel nuts & bolts you can find in hardware stores is less expensive and even superior to the Kawasaki parts, but hard to find. Most American hardware stores carry cheap SAE galvanized crap (which is a PITA when everything else on your bike is metric.)
Every bike lurches a little when you first put it in gear in the morning. Even the best-shifting bike I've ever ridden in the world, (ex-wife's '02 ZX6R). This happens because the oil on the clutch plates is cold, thick and sticky. You can either:
a) loosen (back out) your clutch-lever adjuster barrel 1/2- to 1-turn and secure it with the lockring so that the friction zone of your lever travel is in the last inch of lever travel
b) snick your bike into gear and walk it backward & forward a few times while squeezing & releasing the clutch lever to unstick the plates & disks BEFORE you start the engine
c) walk your bike forward while you're snicking it into first AFTER you've started the engine (I have a slight incline on my driveway which is perfect for this.)
d) get used to it and don't stonk it forcefully into gear (which will eventually result in a bent shift fork and a bike that will magically fall out of gear.)
e) all of the above
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Peace!
-CCinC
Some of the stainless-steel nuts & bolts you can find in hardware stores is less expensive and even superior to the Kawasaki parts, but hard to find. Most American hardware stores carry cheap SAE galvanized crap (which is a PITA when everything else on your bike is metric.)
Every bike lurches a little when you first put it in gear in the morning. Even the best-shifting bike I've ever ridden in the world, (ex-wife's '02 ZX6R). This happens because the oil on the clutch plates is cold, thick and sticky. You can either:
a) loosen (back out) your clutch-lever adjuster barrel 1/2- to 1-turn and secure it with the lockring so that the friction zone of your lever travel is in the last inch of lever travel
b) snick your bike into gear and walk it backward & forward a few times while squeezing & releasing the clutch lever to unstick the plates & disks BEFORE you start the engine
c) walk your bike forward while you're snicking it into first AFTER you've started the engine (I have a slight incline on my driveway which is perfect for this.)
d) get used to it and don't stonk it forcefully into gear (which will eventually result in a bent shift fork and a bike that will magically fall out of gear.)
e) all of the above
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Peace!
-CCinC
#4
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on my 500, the bolts holding the front sprocket cover were reduced to 3.. I believe these were 10mm and I was able to find them at home depot. Looks bling too, its aluminum instead of the stock black..
![Wink](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#5
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my bike is about 20% zip ties. its about 65% electrical tape also ![Smile](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
my entire wiring harness is made out of electrcial tape lol.
yup. faster than stock blinking means that a bulb is burnt out, or that a wire is not connected.
i think it looks better w/o the fairing.
look what i did to mine:
![](http://i12.tinypic.com/6hh2b2d.jpg)
![](http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s72/harperlou/S5030332.jpg)
![Smile](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
my entire wiring harness is made out of electrcial tape lol.
( I only set out to determine the cause of my faster-than-stock left blinker... there was a loose wire, but I got a lil carried away)
I've got half a mind to strap a generic headlight to the forks and drive it around naked for a while... probabaly a bad idea.
look what i did to mine:
![](http://i12.tinypic.com/6hh2b2d.jpg)
![](http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s72/harperlou/S5030332.jpg)
#6
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ORIGINAL: hoedogg
ive used zip ties to hold plastic together when the tabs break off.[&:]when you don't want too spend any more money on a bike your not going tokeep forever.and yeah you should be able too move the bike freely when in gear and clutch pulled.
ive used zip ties to hold plastic together when the tabs break off.[&:]when you don't want too spend any more money on a bike your not going tokeep forever.and yeah you should be able too move the bike freely when in gear and clutch pulled.
dragknee- I prefer the full fairinged ride over naked for that ride. Naked looks too "Go Go Gadget"
#7
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For a temp fix, a zip tie is just fine... I have a feeling this guy had it help together with them for the long haul. I'm making a trip to the depot when I get back to town to get some hardware.
Thanks for all your responses!
-Joe
Thanks for all your responses!
-Joe
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