Hey everyone. I just bought a 1997 Ninja 500 with 20k miles on it. I have the bike in the garage for the next 4 months and have started tearing in to it to fix it up. I've got a large list of to-do items and was wondering if anyone else could make suggestions. Here's what I've done and am planning on doing:

- Flushed front and rear brakes
- Flushed coolant
- Lubricated throttle cables
- Checked brake pads
- Replace thermostat
- Replace radiator fan (almost seized)
- Replace valve cover gasket (leaking)
- Check valve clearances
- Change oil
- Replace spark plugs
- Replace front tire (worn)
- Lubricate chain
- Check chain tension
- Replace air filter
- Clean fuel filter (non-replaceable?)
- Check alignment

The chain and sprockets were replaced 4k miles ago, the pads were done around the same time. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

 

The manual will tell you to replace the brake lines after 4 years, the brake piston seals and the master cylinder diaphragm and seals. But that is your call on the condition as well.

Don't forget about greasing and torquing the steering head bearings and greasing suspension linkages and pivots. Check the cush drive on the rear wheel for cracks and deterioration. (Age plays heck with the rubber cush drive which can cause excessive slap on acceleration and deceleration. Inspect the wheel bearings for play, notchiness, etc. Replace as needed.

How did the valve clearances look when you checked them? Any cam scoring or burning noticed during your check? I am sure that you adjusted the CCT then after checking? (a big thing with kawasaki's since the automatic adjuster does not want to work half of the time)

 

Thanks for all the information Dragone#19. Okay, so the brake lines, seals and diaphragms I was told were replaced around 6,000 miles ago. I don't know how long ago in time that is though. The lines themselves look in very good shape and the brakes feel strong. If I hold down both front and rear that retain the force, so it appears all the seals are good in the master cylinders.

All the grease points you mentioned, I have not done those yet and will need to investigate those locations as well. This is my first bike and I am learning a ton in the past 2 weeks I've had it. I do have a copy of the Haynes manual that is very helpful. As far as the 'cush drive' goes, I can't locate this in that manual. Is this by any chance the coupling damper they refer to located in the hub of the rear wheel behind the sprocket?

I have the valve cover off right now and my feeler gauges are all ready to go... heh, but I haven't checked my valve clearances yet. I was going to do that today but I'm not going to have time. There was a little bit of scoring on the cam lobes but nothing severe. Here are a couple shots of the cams and valves:





As far as the CCT goes. I've actually never heard of this but after some reading I believe it stands for Cam Chain Tensioner? I have a section in my Haynes manual for adjusting this. I also read that it looks like a lot of people have problems with the stock automatic ones and switch to a manual one. I'll have to investigate this further as I only spent maybe 15 minutes reading up on it as of now.

Thanks again for all the advice!

 

hmm, sorry for the lack of communication on my end. Yes, cush drive = the rubbers for the hub/sprocket. CCT= Cam Chain Tensioner

After seeing the scoring on the cams, I am really curious on the valve lash. Honestly, my heart sunk after seeing those pics, but I am not a mechanic, I just like to tinker so please do not take my review as written in stone. Lets see what some of the more experienced mechanics here at KF have for input on this and also Hit up ex500.com and do some reading there. Alot of good info there that is beyond my basic abilities and experience with the 500. Hopefully I did not push you away from KF but Knowledge and safety are key elements for riding enjoyment.

 

I'd say yer cams dont look bad. Kind of hard to see in the pics. As long as there arent any grooves i think yer good to go. How tight is the cam chain? That would be another area to look at. I dont remember if the 500's had automatic cam chain tensioners or manual ones. If they are automatic, those can go bad. They wont ratchet and hold their place and causes cam chain noise that sounds like loose valve lash which is annoying. Other than that you have a good list there and Dragone has you in the right direction as well. Good ole bikes! We just sold our LAST 500r this last summer. It was the same color as Dragone's. Or close to that color, im color blind haha.

 

Yeah, it is difficult to see from that picture, but the wear is really not bad at all. It's ust minor surface wear and the surface is smooth as glass.

I have still yet to adust the valves or check the cam chain tension. It's 12F outside right now and now too cold to work in the garage so I'll have to wait a bit for some warmer weather.

I'll definitely have to check out that other forum but don't worry Dragone#19, I'm not turned away from KF at all.

I am wondering if the cush drive is something I could do after I start riding the bike. If it's worn I should be able to tell from riding the bike, correct?

 

You can inspect it during your wheel bearing inspection. Cracks, excessive slop from shrinkage. You can still use/ride the bike, was just tossing that info out there.

 

That is definitely helpful as I have not seen that listed anywhere else except in my Haynes manual; which doesn't specify a replacement interval.

This also reminds me, I have to still check both front and rear bearings.

Thanks!