Intake?
#1
11-14-2007 | 04:45 AM
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Intake?
ok, so recently i installed a ram air intake on my car making it way more peppy and gas efficient and so on and so forth, so i was thinking, what does the intake on my 05' ex 500r look like, or even, can it be upgraded? so i submit to you, can you upgrade the air intake on your motorcycle, or can you not?
#2
11-14-2007 | 05:14 AM
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From: La Costa, CA
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RE: Intake?
The airbox is located in the rear and there is no suitable path with room enough to accomodate a series of ducts to get the fresh air from the nose back to the airbox.
If you want to experiment and are willing to cut your plastic, you could insert an airhorn in there to make a crude form of Ram air, but because that air horn won't have access to the nonturbulent (clean) air at the front, don't expect any dramatic results.
"Ram Air" on surface-bound vehicles is a marketing term and it doesn't really work on public roads. (Not my ZX9R, not your car.) But what it ~does~ do is cools off the intake charge, which actually does provide some benefit. When air molecules are cold, they are more dense, so more of them can be packed into the chamber during the intake stroke. They're quickly heated once drawn in and compressed, which both means you have more fuel-air mixture AND it atomizes the fuel during that very brief fraction of a second before the ignition occurs.
They actually cut big holes in my ZX9R's frame to accomodate the "Ram-air" ducts.
Because of this my ZX9R with "Ram air" is noticeably more powerful on cold November mornings.
But it's got nothing to do with the the Ram-air system 'pressurizing' the airbox. That only works for vehicles that travel at sub-mach speeds, like the bad@$$ P51 (Cadillac of the Sky):
Peace!
-CCinC
If you want to experiment and are willing to cut your plastic, you could insert an airhorn in there to make a crude form of Ram air, but because that air horn won't have access to the nonturbulent (clean) air at the front, don't expect any dramatic results.
"Ram Air" on surface-bound vehicles is a marketing term and it doesn't really work on public roads. (Not my ZX9R, not your car.) But what it ~does~ do is cools off the intake charge, which actually does provide some benefit. When air molecules are cold, they are more dense, so more of them can be packed into the chamber during the intake stroke. They're quickly heated once drawn in and compressed, which both means you have more fuel-air mixture AND it atomizes the fuel during that very brief fraction of a second before the ignition occurs.
They actually cut big holes in my ZX9R's frame to accomodate the "Ram-air" ducts.
Because of this my ZX9R with "Ram air" is noticeably more powerful on cold November mornings.
But it's got nothing to do with the the Ram-air system 'pressurizing' the airbox. That only works for vehicles that travel at sub-mach speeds, like the bad@$$ P51 (Cadillac of the Sky):Peace!
-CCinC
#4
11-14-2007 | 05:45 AM
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RE: Intake?
Actually a divergent air duct could produce a slight pressure increase, but like Chris said its not enough to help performance much, and the main increase comes from colder air. Since the 500 doesnt trap the hot engine air in a chamber (under the hood in your car) the air temp differencebetween the airbox or a ram air system would be minimal.
BTW, I saw that P-51 this summer at an air show. I'm just an hour away from the Happy Hooligans, but I hear they are gonna get replaced by UAVs
BTW, I saw that P-51 this summer at an air show. I'm just an hour away from the Happy Hooligans, but I hear they are gonna get replaced by UAVs
#5
11-14-2007 | 06:28 AM
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From: La Costa, CA
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RE: Intake?
My father was a flight instructor at Chino Airport when I was a kid. (And I actually flew Pa's Cessna before I ever drove a car at age 13.) Back then, Chino's "Planes of Fame" Museum was only a junkyard full of rusting WWII hulks, and I used to spend all day climbing around in them. Half of the junk there was P-51 parts.
I heard one of them actually shot down a MiG (a freaking JET) in the Korean war. Always loved this scene in Empire of the Sun (click).
Peace!
-CCinC
I heard one of them actually shot down a MiG (a freaking JET) in the Korean war. Always loved this scene in Empire of the Sun (click).
Peace!
-CCinC
#8
11-14-2007 | 05:40 PM
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RE: Intake?
And if anyone else ever flies the thing you have to start a corporation so you dont get your a** sued off if anything happens to it. Kinda like to have a Mooney if I was going second hand, or a new cirrus but I would need a couple more laywers for that
Edit: by the way....HIJACK!
Edit: by the way....HIJACK!
#10
12-08-2007 | 01:22 AM
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RE: Intake?
this is probably the best intake mod you can make to your ex500.
http://www.stevemorley.com/ex500/airbox/
quotes from FOG about this:
http://www.stevemorley.com/ex500/airbox/
quotes from FOG about this:
A bit of a Primer on the air box modifacation. It's not about air flow but presure adjustment (negative pressure). The running engine draws air form the airbox lowering the internal pressure from the throttle to the intake air horn. This lower pressure is what causes fuel to rise up through the jets. At low speed it almost nonexistant and causes a very lean mixture. This is why you have pilot jets. Converslly at High speed and full throttle operation this pressure differential is great causing too much fuel to be forced into the airstream and causing rich running and lower power production than Ideal.
The hole lower this pressure differential and lessens the flow of fuel at full throttle. This leaning out is why you need to re adjust the pilot screws after altering the airbox pressure (Vacuum) Also this is why only 1 1" hole is required any moe and you have screwd up the balance.
Resetting the pilot screws is a tuneing thing. Simply agjust then to achieve the best throttle response from Idle to about 7000 RPM. Sudden full throttle at Idle and adjust by 1/4 turn at a time to get the smoothes acceleration
The hole lower this pressure differential and lessens the flow of fuel at full throttle. This leaning out is why you need to re adjust the pilot screws after altering the airbox pressure (Vacuum) Also this is why only 1 1" hole is required any moe and you have screwd up the balance.
Resetting the pilot screws is a tuneing thing. Simply agjust then to achieve the best throttle response from Idle to about 7000 RPM. Sudden full throttle at Idle and adjust by 1/4 turn at a time to get the smoothes acceleration
I continually remind everyone that the airbox/filter system. is not about airflow or maximizing airflow. But a pressure balance. More correctly a negative pressure balance. Weather one filter or another flows more freely than another means nothing.
The Engine determines the airflow, by it's displacement. That is for every two revolutions of the engine 498cc of air are drawn through the filter, no more no less. Even if the is No filter whatsoever.
Now you do need a filter, which one is best. For that you'll need to find another expert, but once you choose one, Here's what happens.
The filters restriction creates a bit more vacuum in the carb venturi area which causes the atmospheric pressure on the gas in the float bowl to have an easier time forcing fuel through the various jets and orifices. This causes the mixture ti enrichen (over no filter). SO to obtain proper running you need to make some adjustment.
OK starting with a stock EX with a stock airfilter. Here we have a engine that was tuned to pass EPA rules. That is very lean @Slow speed. and somewhat rich everywhere else.
To help the rich on top we lower the airbox pressure with 1" hole Then we lower the float bowl pressure with a looser filter (KN) then we open the pilot screws to allow the lower pressure in the float chamber to push enough fuel to improve the low speed running.
Got IT? good, don't ask me again.
Do you have to do both, the hole and the screw adjustment? YES
Are two hole better than 1? It dosn't matter as long as the total area of those holes does not exceed Pi r sQ. X .5
can I use a diffrent filter? Yes if you tune the pilot screws to suit that filter (your results may vary).
That's it if you think up anything else to do, your on your own and don't call it the FOG MOD.
FOG[/align]
The Engine determines the airflow, by it's displacement. That is for every two revolutions of the engine 498cc of air are drawn through the filter, no more no less. Even if the is No filter whatsoever.
Now you do need a filter, which one is best. For that you'll need to find another expert, but once you choose one, Here's what happens.
The filters restriction creates a bit more vacuum in the carb venturi area which causes the atmospheric pressure on the gas in the float bowl to have an easier time forcing fuel through the various jets and orifices. This causes the mixture ti enrichen (over no filter). SO to obtain proper running you need to make some adjustment.
OK starting with a stock EX with a stock airfilter. Here we have a engine that was tuned to pass EPA rules. That is very lean @Slow speed. and somewhat rich everywhere else.
To help the rich on top we lower the airbox pressure with 1" hole Then we lower the float bowl pressure with a looser filter (KN) then we open the pilot screws to allow the lower pressure in the float chamber to push enough fuel to improve the low speed running.
Got IT? good, don't ask me again.
Do you have to do both, the hole and the screw adjustment? YES
Are two hole better than 1? It dosn't matter as long as the total area of those holes does not exceed Pi r sQ. X .5
can I use a diffrent filter? Yes if you tune the pilot screws to suit that filter (your results may vary).
That's it if you think up anything else to do, your on your own and don't call it the FOG MOD.
FOG[/align]