Carburetor kits
#1
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I've been trying to find some info in the forum, but I haven't been able to.
Wich have been your experience with the carburetor kits? As far as I know there are two different brand on the market: Dynojet and Factory Pro. I'm thinking about installing one of those kits in my bike, and I would like to know something about your experiences. Are they hard to tune? Does the air filter must be changed? which are their pros and cons? Does the engine keep it famous 'kick' at 7K RPMs? etc...
What I'm more interested in is in the behaviour of the engine at low RPMs. I use the bike mainly in the city, and this involves low RPMs running.
Best regards and thank you for your help.
Wich have been your experience with the carburetor kits? As far as I know there are two different brand on the market: Dynojet and Factory Pro. I'm thinking about installing one of those kits in my bike, and I would like to know something about your experiences. Are they hard to tune? Does the air filter must be changed? which are their pros and cons? Does the engine keep it famous 'kick' at 7K RPMs? etc...
What I'm more interested in is in the behaviour of the engine at low RPMs. I use the bike mainly in the city, and this involves low RPMs running.
Best regards and thank you for your help.
#2
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I have done some investigation and I have found that in some pages Dynojet is accused of inflating the results of their measures. If this is true, the kit would not work as good as they state. In this situation I think that the factory pro kit would be better.
Any experience about any of those kits?
Best Regards.
Any experience about any of those kits?
Best Regards.
#3
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Of course Dynojet inflates their results! Do you imagine that Factory Pro is any different?
Jet kits basically solve any low-rpm problems by throwing fuel at them.
My friend SuperDave and I had identical W650s. He got a freer-flowing less-restrictive exhaust system, a jet kit, and drilled holes in the airbox. He took it to a dyno-tuner who showed him dyno results before and after the jet kit and everyone in my W650 forum got very interested in hopping up their bikes.
Then Dave and I went out to the desert roads around Salton Sea for a side-by-side comparison. I left my bike completely stock, even left the toolkit strapped in place over the airbox vents directly beneath the seat.
And our bikes were completely matched every time. We did more than a dozen test runs from a standstill, a top-gear roll-on from 50mph and a top-speed contest. Sometimes I would get a slight edge over him and sometimes he would get a slight edge over me; which we attributed to lucky reaction times.
The only difference all those mods made were that Dave was getting about 30mpg while I was still getting around 50 and his bike was louder.
If you want a more powerful bike, get a ZZR600 or a 650R.
Jet kits basically solve any low-rpm problems by throwing fuel at them.
My friend SuperDave and I had identical W650s. He got a freer-flowing less-restrictive exhaust system, a jet kit, and drilled holes in the airbox. He took it to a dyno-tuner who showed him dyno results before and after the jet kit and everyone in my W650 forum got very interested in hopping up their bikes.
Then Dave and I went out to the desert roads around Salton Sea for a side-by-side comparison. I left my bike completely stock, even left the toolkit strapped in place over the airbox vents directly beneath the seat.
And our bikes were completely matched every time. We did more than a dozen test runs from a standstill, a top-gear roll-on from 50mph and a top-speed contest. Sometimes I would get a slight edge over him and sometimes he would get a slight edge over me; which we attributed to lucky reaction times.
The only difference all those mods made were that Dave was getting about 30mpg while I was still getting around 50 and his bike was louder.
If you want a more powerful bike, get a ZZR600 or a 650R.
#4
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P.S. If you want to smooth out the lower-rpm operation, simply back out the pilot screws 1/4 to half-a-turn. You might have to drill out the tamper-proof caps, but this will richen up your lower-end and smooth it out a little, at the expense of only a little fuel economy.
#5
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Thanks for your response. I have already bought a second hand carbs and a Factory pro Ti kit.
My idea is to have my original carb in stock settings, and have the second carb to make all my experiments.
I'm not looking for more high-end power, but for a better low-end response. my bike seems to bo too rich around the 3-4K RPMs and I'm nos able to solve this matter with the mixture screew.
Just trying different solutions.
Any tip about the installation & setup of the FP kit?
Best regards.
My idea is to have my original carb in stock settings, and have the second carb to make all my experiments.
I'm not looking for more high-end power, but for a better low-end response. my bike seems to bo too rich around the 3-4K RPMs and I'm nos able to solve this matter with the mixture screew.
Just trying different solutions.
Any tip about the installation & setup of the FP kit?
Best regards.
#10
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Normally, a person starts from scratch again with the carbs after an exhaust install. Idle, mid and 3/4-open. Bottom does not change too much normally(1/4 turn?), mid is normally needle shape, size and how far up or down, open is mains. Bottom and mid is rider and terrain, open is plug chop time.