OK, I see!! To answer your question, I didn't mean manuals, I meant manual tensioner. I read it several times and it threw me too. But that was it. You have to take in the context I meant it and on these boards, nobody can hear the tone in your voice, so in just words, it did come out funny. So now I am gonna search to get my jetting right.

 

The question is does the tensioner by design move back and fourth or does it lock to keep it from being pushed up, the spring would push the rod down when the chain loosens then the bearings would lock it in place at a lower height?

Im still trying to figure that one out, if it locks then grease wouldnt be the best thing, if it doesnt lock then a stiffer spring would work. One thing I have been told about fork springs is that a shorter spring of the same gauge and coils per inch is stiffer than a longer one. The reason it came up is because I have a set of 250 springs and ex500 springs the wiregauge and coils per inch are the same however the 500 springs are 2" shorter than the 250 springs but they are stiffer.

When Im out in the barn this weekend Ill look at my old tensioner and see if I cant come to a conclusion.

I would go with a stiffer spring not longer, you could even go shorter and shim the inside of the rod, with what I couldnt tell you. It would have to be flat and heat proof. I would try a different/ new spring before I would jam the rod in place. I have worked on a wide variety of equipment for 19yrs and I have learned that "most" things are made a certain way for a reason. There were a few things that benefeited from redesign but not anything that has been produced exactly the same for 20yrs like the 250.

 

I understand where you're going and understand what you mean with the spring. Wish I had a better answer cept for what I did. Man it sure seems that an after market CCT would be a breeze to make, but like all, you gotta hold your mouth right to get them tweaked right. There are the instructions, and then there is the feel.[sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

Just keep an eye on it and see how it does in the long run, you could havecome up with a decent mod but only time will tell. One thing you want to make sure you dont jam the tensioner rod assembley too tight against the chain. You could cause premature stretching or wear of the cam ends which could be why its spring loaded. I just dont know.

And yes I though you were talking about the manuals [sm=smiley1.gif]

 

I am trying to follow this. What grease?

 

Have you seen the actual tensioner? I can post a pic if you havent.
Im trying to remember for sure without going out to the barn for the manuals but Im pretty sure it says to apply light grease to the assembley. It comes with some on it but it could just be assembley grease to keep it from rusting. Anyway I used a cam bearing grease on it FWIW, others have used moly.

The one I pulled out of mine was covered with what looked like moly.

 

Holy Moly! toss some oil it and jam it back together. LOL!!!
If any if ya come around Deals Gap, give me a PM and I'll go over and see ya. I'm 45minutes away..[sm=icon_sneaky.gif]

 

Someday...when I feel like a 10hr bike ride [sm=smiley4.gif] Actually the plans are to trailer the bikes not this year though.

 

It is a ratcheting/locking system

edit: you place a manual tensioner in place, that is why you need to adjust. either the spring weakens, my theory, or the ratcheting mechanism is not so great. Why my Q

 

Ratcheting?? The 250? I don't see how, or am I reading this wrong? What bearing locks it in place? From what I see, the bearing is just there to center the rod only. Now the ZRX has a ratchet type CCT.