just my 2 cents here on break-in.. i build motors (many of them race-spec) and when i break them in, i will make a few light throttle passes in the parkinglot (usually 3 or 4) then make another 4 passes at a higher load and a little more throttle. i'll work eventually to about 80% throttle, then allow 30 min fan-assisted cool down and an oil change, then resume break in to 100% load within another 8-10 passes. i don't hold it at the RPMs.. i'll ramp up and let off and let it come back to idle. using engine braking will allow vacuum outside the exhaust valves to scavenge the cylinder and pull out all the filings from the rings seating.

not saying you SHOULD break in your next new bike this way, but honestly, in my professional opinion, you certainly can't baby a motor too much whilst breaking in. i've never one time ever had a complaint or failure with this method. it's similar to a racetrack or dyno break-in. very effective.

that said, welcome to KF, to riding, and to the family bro! good to have ya.. have fun, be safe, and see ya around..

 

I think you meant to say 'you certainly can baby a motor too much'. I agree, but your method is too harsh for maximum power - if you produce detectable filings you're tearing the bore instead of smoothing it - and certainly too harsh to give the 100,000 miles minimum life I expect from an engine before any strip down is required. On a race engine, of course, that doesn't matter. I have the same criticism of race track or dyno break in. It's fine for the track.

Rob

 

I've really enjoyed my first 100 miles on my 250 on the back roads where i live, rain & freezing temps. have prevented me from riding more.

I'm possibly starting a new job which will include about 25 miles of interstate travel both ways. Once i get it broke in will this bike handle 70-75MPH of interstate travel ok?

 

Yes

Rob

 

When I picked up my 09 250r, dealer and mechanic BOTH said that you don't need to baby this bike. It's too forgiving. All they recommended is that you don't red line. Picked the bike up in Jan, have 900 miles so far and its better then ever. Best toy ever!

 

You're lucky.
I've had mine since November & only have 300 miles on her, days I'm able to ride it's either raining or 30 degrees.

I want to start riding it to work as soon as the weather permits, but it's 29 miles one way, mostly interstate so i would like to get the first 500 mile service before that 70-75MPH trip everyday.

 

You can ride in the rain and you can ride at 30 F, but it's not a good idea when it's both because of ice.

If you ride to work, you'll have days when it's cold or raining on your return, so best get used to it.

Rob

 

Has anybody geared one of these 250s slightly higher for a lower RPM while in high gear?

I know these babies are tough, but 9000RPM at 70MPH. I keep feeling like i need to shift into another gear once i hit that speed.

I love this bike and i guess it doesn't help to switch back & forth from my Ninja 250 to my V Twin 800 Shadow.

Thanks!

 

I know this is an old thread, but I have had two 250 Ninjas and a host of other Kawasaki's, and they all say this stupid crap on the tach for break-in...4000rpm for 500km and 6000rpm for 1000km...




It said the EXACT same thing on a sticker on my 2005 ZRX1200 tach, and both of my Ninja 250's, an 89 and a 94. This picture is of a '72 Kawasaki Mach III 750.

Notiice any similarities?

It's the SAME rpms for the same break-in time period, which can not mean the same things for totally different bikes...

Take it for what you will....

 

The stock advice in the book wil let you break in any bike without wrecking it, but won't give the best break in. That has to be tailored to suit the bike in terms of revs.

Rob