It should come as no shock to anyone who has read my posts over the past few days. I could use some help.Here is what I have done in the past few nights.

Installed the FMF Q2 and FSW head pipe.
Changed the main jet 118 -> 122.
Changed the pilot jet 35 -> 38.
Installed the Kuoba T-handle fuel air screw (slightly over 2 turns out which is where the stock one was).
Installed the N1TC needle (clip in second position from the top).
Drilled slide vent hole to 7/64.

I have a UNI filter to install but I need to oil it first.

I installed the carb, routed and secured the various hoses and wire bundles, and hooked up the gas tank.
I turned the fuel on and let it sit while I finished installing the plastic and seat (somewhat optimistic
to completely reassymble at this point but I was feeling lucky). I took maybe five minutes to get it started.
The first thing I noticed was that it was idling low (about 900 rpm). I adjusted it to about 1400 rpm. Next
I smelled smoke so I grabbed a fire extinguisher. Turned out to be the coating on the head pipe burning off.
It gave me a good scare though.

Now comes the fun part. The bike felt different right away. It seemed to like running at a higher rpm and was
not quite as torquey down low. It definitely makes it power higher up. 60 mph came and went before I knew it
and I'm not exaggerating. Flying through the gears the front wheel gave the indication of coming off the ground
but I don't think it ever did.

I did not notice any abnormal traits as I accerlerated. No surging, bogging, or sudden loss of power. All was well.
That is until I closed the throttle anyway. On decel I get a sputtering/popping. Not sure where this is coming from.

Any ideas?

 

this might not fix your problem, but i think you should go to a bigger main jet. most guys are running 128 or at least 125 with your mods. try turning your air screw out another half a turn and see if the popping gets better.

 

it's probably running lean there. try moving the clip on the needle down one slot and see how that goes.

 

my bike is runnin fat....... 125 main, pilot 40, needle on second position, uni air filter, big gun, air screw 2.5 tuns out......

 

is it running fat or phat?...lol

 

if you mean sh***y by phat..... then yes........[:'(]

 

If I turn the fuel screw out another half turn and the popping goes away (or decreases) would you still recomment moving to a bigger main?

DC

 

Are you sure you have the screw out 2 turns?
remember its 360deg not 180deg so its actually 4 turns of the t-handle.

 

First let me say how great this site is. I have spent a fair amount of time learning from others here. I had hoped that being one of the few to go the FMF route would provide me with some knowledge that I could share. You know, giving back to the people is always a good thing. Anyway thanks to everyone.

With that said here is how I changed out the stock fuel air screw.

After I drilled out the plug over the stock screw I lightly bottomed out the screw. Imagining that it started at the 12:00 O'clock position, I turned 360 degrees twice.So 720 degrees put me back at 12:00 O'clock. It then turned to about the 1:30 clock position before it bottommed out that put it at about 745 degrees out. I then removed it and placed the stock spring and o-ring on the Kuoba screw. I lightly bottomed this one and backed it out about 745 degrees.

One thing that I did notice about the two screws was that the Kuoba has more threads on it. Comparing the two it looked as though the distance between where the threads end/shoulder begins to the end of the screw were the same. It took more turns to bottom it out and towards the end it became somewhat difficult to turn. I wonder if I turned it too far down and thus did not back it out enough?