I was about to write that I also think the R and R/W wires must be connected together to have a working tail light/plate light, but you found out anyway. Dan's bike may have some other wiring mods such that the rear light is energized even if the R/W wire is not connected at the ignition.

But all this makes me wonder why in the world they provided a separate contact to switch power to those two lights. That circuit don't get a separate fuse, power for it comes from the same fuse as the headlight. Connecting together the R and R/W wires at the ignition switch won't make a difference, electrically speaking. Thus, why the trouble of a three pole switch? Please enlighten my mind if you can...

 

Nice job JH! Congrats on your success and for sticking with it.

 

ok so I have to resurrect this thred. I am in need of removing my ignition. I have read this thred and have a good understanding of the way it needs to be wired up but I am not sure what kind of 100ohm resistor I need. Will a small 1.5v one work or does it need to be stronger. Also I was wondering what switches you went with and what you did for mounting and stuff. Links to the parts would be awsome if you have um. I was riding a dual sport this weekend and I think the ignition switch died on me. I get no lights no starter nothing when I turn the key on. I was able to bump start it with the ignition on though. So strange. It was working fine then nothing. I want the switch to be durable because I use the bike mostly off road. I had been thinking about removing the key for a while anyway.

 

Oh I will be going with the spst setup. I am hoping someone has a good suggestion for a rugged water proof switch. Potential bar mount would be cool to. Hidden in plain sight tends to confuse the ill intended.

 

hey just want to know does the resistor come between grey and yellow or between yellow and white please help