My reason:

Stock speedo was bashed when I bought the bike and the bike already had an aftermarket headlight on it but the headlight was dimmer than a cold day in hell. Stock speedo is reported to not be very accurate as well.

I replaced the stock speedo with a much more functional and aesthetic speedometer called the Trailtech Vapor. I also picked up their X2 dual sport headlight. Great improvement over what was on my bike and super improvement from stock from what I hear.

There is a abscess on the back of the headlight where it faces the triple clamp not allowing enough room for both a key switch and the Vapor speedo to sit.

 

Mine removed for same reason: trailtech Vapor and X2 headlight. The little weight reduction is an added bonus.

Jhoffy - looking forward to seeing yours when complete.

End result it may look something like this (yes, I do use a headlight, thank you):

 

Wow, I hate to see someone get bent out of shape like that. So far it looks like everyone is trying to help the OP, and IDRIDR stated from the get go that he is no expert. I'm even less of an expert, but with some help from the great folks on here I got mine to work. Come on, have some patience. durielk I like the kill switch idea, I wish I had thought of it, I can't think of any reason that it wouldn't work. just wire the ignition all up solid and use the kill switch instead of the switch we all have added. Any reason that wouldn't work?

Here is all you need Jhoffy. This is how I did mine. More than one way to skin a cat though.
Dan

 

Dan - that's interesting. I had though that the R & R/W wires would need to be connected with switch "on" position for the lights to work. But you just capped those wires and use only a SPST switch? Are you sure you're not bypassing the lamp fuse? Confused...

 

I am not sure. I got help from Neilaction ( down under). I sent him this incorrect schematic (below) and he wrote back with corrections that led me to the schematic that I posted above. I have had no issues so far, but if I'm skipping a fuse, that's not good.


Neil Wrote

"Sorry for the delay Dan, been away.

No that isn't right.
The toggle switch needs to be between the brown and the white. This is the main power. The resister is correct but no need to connect it to a switch. Just wire the resistor in. If you're not using the parking lights then just cap em off.

Cheers Neil"

 

Had a pretty productive day on the bike. Got a hokey mount built for the Vapor and wired in the switch per Dan's handwritten schematic on the previous page. Everything went pretty well, soldered all connections and used heat shrink over top.

There was a little uh-oh though that I can't figure out now. The rear running light is no longer on. I'm not sure if this is a mistake with just capping off the red wires separately or what. That light is supposed to be on and then brighten up when you hit the brakes. It only comes on now when I hit the brakes.

I wonder if it is necessary to work the red wires in rather then just capping them off not connecting to each other or anything else.

 

I will not say it.....

 

No please do

 

You want to fix it? Put a 3PDT switch in. Then you don't have to spend 4 hours trying to get a mess fixed.

 

we know that will work but i say let jh debug a bit and add another option to the list.