Wiring up switch in place of key/ignition
#31
Not speaking for the OP, but I've seen at least three reasons a person might want to remove the keyed ignition:
-The position of the OEM key switch interferes with the addition of an aftermarket computer such as the Vapor.
-Slight reduction in weight.
-Change to different upper triple clamp that does not have provisions for the keyed switch.
-The position of the OEM key switch interferes with the addition of an aftermarket computer such as the Vapor.
-Slight reduction in weight.
-Change to different upper triple clamp that does not have provisions for the keyed switch.
My reason:
Stock speedo was bashed when I bought the bike and the bike already had an aftermarket headlight on it but the headlight was dimmer than a cold day in hell. Stock speedo is reported to not be very accurate as well.
I replaced the stock speedo with a much more functional and aesthetic speedometer called the Trailtech Vapor. I also picked up their X2 dual sport headlight. Great improvement over what was on my bike and super improvement from stock from what I hear.
There is a abscess on the back of the headlight where it faces the triple clamp not allowing enough room for both a key switch and the Vapor speedo to sit.
#32
Mine removed for same reason: trailtech Vapor and X2 headlight. The little weight reduction is an added bonus.
Jhoffy - looking forward to seeing yours when complete.
End result it may look something like this (yes, I do use a headlight, thank you):
Jhoffy - looking forward to seeing yours when complete.
End result it may look something like this (yes, I do use a headlight, thank you):
#33
OK, so you are not wiring it like it was originally intended. When you do not state that from the beginning, who knows what your doing or not doing.
For that matter, just put in one SPST switch for the lighting circuit, leave the ignition wired. Just use the KILL switch to turn it off & the starter to start it.
And from the looks of your bike, it doesn't have a headlight, so you don't even need one switch!
And further, you are not the original poster, who states he does not know what to do. Your comments are confusing for all others.
For that matter, just put in one SPST switch for the lighting circuit, leave the ignition wired. Just use the KILL switch to turn it off & the starter to start it.
And from the looks of your bike, it doesn't have a headlight, so you don't even need one switch!
And further, you are not the original poster, who states he does not know what to do. Your comments are confusing for all others.
Here is all you need Jhoffy. This is how I did mine. More than one way to skin a cat though.
Dan
Last edited by dan888; 06-02-2012 at 03:30 PM.
#34
Dan - that's interesting. I had though that the R & R/W wires would need to be connected with switch "on" position for the lights to work. But you just capped those wires and use only a SPST switch? Are you sure you're not bypassing the lamp fuse? Confused...
#35
Neil Wrote
"Sorry for the delay Dan, been away.
No that isn't right.
The toggle switch needs to be between the brown and the white. This is the main power. The resister is correct but no need to connect it to a switch. Just wire the resistor in. If you're not using the parking lights then just cap em off.
Cheers Neil"
Last edited by dan888; 06-02-2012 at 07:26 PM.
#36
Uh-oh :0
Had a pretty productive day on the bike. Got a hokey mount built for the Vapor and wired in the switch per Dan's handwritten schematic on the previous page. Everything went pretty well, soldered all connections and used heat shrink over top.
There was a little uh-oh though that I can't figure out now. The rear running light is no longer on. I'm not sure if this is a mistake with just capping off the red wires separately or what. That light is supposed to be on and then brighten up when you hit the brakes. It only comes on now when I hit the brakes.
I wonder if it is necessary to work the red wires in rather then just capping them off not connecting to each other or anything else.
There was a little uh-oh though that I can't figure out now. The rear running light is no longer on. I'm not sure if this is a mistake with just capping off the red wires separately or what. That light is supposed to be on and then brighten up when you hit the brakes. It only comes on now when I hit the brakes.
I wonder if it is necessary to work the red wires in rather then just capping them off not connecting to each other or anything else.