Wiring Diagram
#11
RE: Wiring Diagram
Yep, the headlight was out as well. None of the bulbs were blown, but I smashed the housing for the liscense plate bulb.
May I ask you -- I saw in you picture that you have a new pipe. I really dont want to get in to a whole lot of modifications to the
carb and intake, but I thought that simple one such as replacing the stock pipe with a aftermarket one might ad just a little pep. Does this really make much of a difference? Again, I am a shade tree mechanic and new the whole motorcycle thing so I am trying to learn as much as I can.
Thanks
jethro
May I ask you -- I saw in you picture that you have a new pipe. I really dont want to get in to a whole lot of modifications to the
carb and intake, but I thought that simple one such as replacing the stock pipe with a aftermarket one might ad just a little pep. Does this really make much of a difference? Again, I am a shade tree mechanic and new the whole motorcycle thing so I am trying to learn as much as I can.
Thanks
jethro
#12
RE: Wiring Diagram
I really think if you do the pipe, that it should be done in combination with the standard carb adjustments and airbox snorkel replacement. The airbox snorkel replacement is dead simple - just remove the lid, pop out the stock snorkel, then replace with the KDX200 snorkel. The part number is in the sticky thread "common part numbers" at the top of this forum along with part numbers for the common jet sizes and N1TC needle, collar, and clip that most folks are using.
The carb jetting and adjustments are slightly more involved, but are not difficult. There are plenty of photos around showing what needs to be done, and the part numbers for the jet sizes and the replacement needle.
I really think these should be done together because the way the stock bike is set up, it runs on the lean side. Adding a pipe that flows the exhaust with less restriction will tend to make that already lean condition even leaner. This can lead to a hot running engine and combustion which in extreme cases can damage your piston and warp the head. So if you add an aftermarket pipe, you'll definitely want to open the air box up, richen up the mixture with the larger jet sizes, adjustable needle, and around 2 to 2.5 turns out on the mixture screw.
Even if you elect not to get a new pipe, I still recommend doing the carb and airbox mod, then drill your stock pipe 1/2" through the first baffle. This is very cheap - around $50 or $60 in parts only. And this made a very positive difference in the bike's performance and fun factor. The aftermarket pipe is icing on the cake after that.
It is optional whether or not to drill the crankcase vent at the airbox, but most recommend it.
The carb jetting and adjustments are slightly more involved, but are not difficult. There are plenty of photos around showing what needs to be done, and the part numbers for the jet sizes and the replacement needle.
I really think these should be done together because the way the stock bike is set up, it runs on the lean side. Adding a pipe that flows the exhaust with less restriction will tend to make that already lean condition even leaner. This can lead to a hot running engine and combustion which in extreme cases can damage your piston and warp the head. So if you add an aftermarket pipe, you'll definitely want to open the air box up, richen up the mixture with the larger jet sizes, adjustable needle, and around 2 to 2.5 turns out on the mixture screw.
Even if you elect not to get a new pipe, I still recommend doing the carb and airbox mod, then drill your stock pipe 1/2" through the first baffle. This is very cheap - around $50 or $60 in parts only. And this made a very positive difference in the bike's performance and fun factor. The aftermarket pipe is icing on the cake after that.
It is optional whether or not to drill the crankcase vent at the airbox, but most recommend it.
#14
Along these lines, has anyone ever converted the glass fuses to blade type. I've noticed some doing this with other bikes as they claim the glass ones are more fragile and prone to break at inopportune times.
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