It finally warmed up enough to where I was able to get a ride in this weekend. A BIG THUMBS UP on the TM36-68 on the big bore. The front easily comes up in first and second without clutching and the power is smooth and strong throughout. I've read that it doesn't matter, but there's minimal popping on de-accel.

I still don't have the setting for the AP turning on just right yet, but I haven't spent much time on adjusting it though. After re-reading Mike's post, I need to adjust it in small increments rather than big ones.

 

Great! I'm glad it's working good for you. I really like how the TM36 works on my bike. Mine pops just a little on deceleration too, but it's so slight that I'm not going to worry about it.

 

Mines the same way works good, with the low gearing it yank the front end up in 4th gear.

 

Finally got my TM36 in the mail... Now I've gotta find some time to install and tune it.
(It's too damn coldin the garage to do any work).
Also got a TM33 for the wife's Super Sherpa.

Will post pics and a ride report in the coming weeks...

 

Played hookey and went to the track today and rode about 45 miles. Nice, no one else out there, just me and Dana. (Still would rather ride some mountain trail, but that isn't going to happen for a while).

The TM36 is great. Very strong accelleration through midrange. I've got a couple of backfires (not popping) down low, but that's because I probably don't have the AP settings quite right yet. One of my tuning manuals says this about backfiring:

Incorrect accelerator pump adjustment:
If the accelerator pump adjustment is set to start too
late, backfiring may occur due to an overly lean mixture
just off idle.

Got to remember this:

The beginning point of the pump stroke is adjusted
with screw #1 on the white plastic pump lever. To start
the pump sooner (smaller throttle opening), back the
screw out. To start it later, turn the screw in.

The end of the accelerator pump stroke is adjusted
by screw #2 located on top of the carburetor just behind
the pump lever. Best performance is generally achieved
when the pump stroke ends before 2/3 throttle.

Aha! that's it, I turned the screw in before starting the ride. I was trying to get rid of a small bog I get when cracking the throttle off idle. It could be that the idle is set too low since after adding some RPMs, the bike just takes off with no hesitation.

 

I am waiting for my TM36-68 to arrive. In the meantime I am installing the 330 kit from Kustom Kraft. I also have a FMF exhaust and header I am going to put on at the same time. This may be a dumb question but what about the grey electrical plug thing (very technical here and my digital camera is not working so no pics) that the stock carb has. It screws to the front left side of the carb. Does the TM36 have the same plug or do I need it?

 

That's the throttle position sensor, and no, it's not used with the TM36 (are any other pumper carb). I just tucked mineup into the wiring harness.

Congrats on all of your go-fast goodies! You won't even know it's the same bike when your finished.

 

Okay how about this question - putting the Mikuni TM36-68 on a KLX with the 300cc kit or should I stay with the Bill Blue TM-34?

 

If you already have a Bill Blue TM34 and you're happy with it, there's no sense in getting a different carb. The TM34 will work very well with 300cc's.

 

All I've got to say is I brought a 36 from motorcyclecarbs.com and I've got out on it a few adjustment to the idle/pilot. MY STOCK250 BORE... I would say hands down best mod I've done. It willthrottle wheelie.I'm not talking put you on your back
but to be driving around and goose it to have some tire lift without trying to is awesome. I think if I didn't have a good exhaust and intake system it maybe too much. Besides know i can tell my wife with the new carb it has to have that big bore it works better but I now need more cc's. Just like the pair of shoes to go with her new dress lol...