WHY IT'S ONLY A 250
#21
RE: WHY IT'S ONLY A 250
I would agree with VFR that the springs were the best improvement to the bike, I didn't re-valve just changed the front and rear springs and went with a little Bel Ray 10W fork oil.
The shorty ASV levers are up high on the list as well now that I have the front brake-lights working and hand-guard situation all sorted out the way I want. Once I get the neutral safety switch working the levers will move to the top of the list; I just know that I'm going to hit the starter and drop the bike one day.
The shorty ASV levers are up high on the list as well now that I have the front brake-lights working and hand-guard situation all sorted out the way I want. Once I get the neutral safety switch working the levers will move to the top of the list; I just know that I'm going to hit the starter and drop the bike one day.
#22
RE: WHY IT'S ONLY A 250
ORIGINAL: mudjunkie
vfr, I priced valving kits and they were surprisingly more expensive than I thought, and I have no idea what they do in relation to the suspension...what do they do exactly? I am ordering new springs minus the valving kit because I have no idea what replacing the valving kit would do..your thoughts?
vfr, I priced valving kits and they were surprisingly more expensive than I thought, and I have no idea what they do in relation to the suspension...what do they do exactly? I am ordering new springs minus the valving kit because I have no idea what replacing the valving kit would do..your thoughts?
While talking with John at MotoPro it became clearer to me that the suspension needed to be different for the guy who jumps 30' table tops, from the guy who rides hare scrambles type of stuff, to the guy who is in a lot of sand, to the fast rocky terain.
The springs are important to suport our given weight, but the valving is what makes the handling proper.
Have you ever heard Darrel Waltrip talk about how the shock packages make all the difference in the Nextel cars? I would have to say that holds true in all types of motorsports.
edited for spelling
#23
RE: WHY IT'S ONLY A 250
well I haven't messed around with the clickers yet..but sinceI am pretty green when it comes to dirtbiking, I am thinking the stock valves will be fine for me and the type of riding I do which is about 60% street, 30% dirtroads and 10% ATV trails...no maasive jumps and I can't catwalk either so I intend on just adjusting the clickers until they are in the middle of their adjustment and seeing how that feels..along with the proper springs for my weight. But if I am way off in my line of thinking, please let me know thanks.
#25
RE: WHY IT'S ONLY A 250
ORIGINAL: shaydara
Gold prospecting, relic and coin hunt also. I use a metal detector from Minelab and pan gold from time to time. It takes me to remote places which I love
Cheers!
Gold prospecting, relic and coin hunt also. I use a metal detector from Minelab and pan gold from time to time. It takes me to remote places which I love
Cheers!
#26
RE: WHY IT'S ONLY A 250
just wondering....(shaydara)
do you ever really find anything worthwile doing that??
and, what brand of shocks do you guys use? ive always used and loved factory connection but dou you know of any better underground makes? possibly cheaper than FC?
do you ever really find anything worthwile doing that??
and, what brand of shocks do you guys use? ive always used and loved factory connection but dou you know of any better underground makes? possibly cheaper than FC?
#27
RE: WHY IT'S ONLY A 250
I think it's a good economical start. Just changing the spring rate alone and fresh "real" fork oil in the forks wouls make a world of difference. A valve kit could orderd/installed later if ya want.
Personally Im a HUGE believer in good suspension above most everything. I had a BMWR1100S and installed built Ohlins on it and I was at the point to where I could tell a difference between 2 clicks of compression or rebound. It really opend my eyes to the suspension game.
Personally Im a HUGE believer in good suspension above most everything. I had a BMWR1100S and installed built Ohlins on it and I was at the point to where I could tell a difference between 2 clicks of compression or rebound. It really opend my eyes to the suspension game.
#28
RE: WHY IT'S ONLY A 250
ORIGINAL: slimenlyman
I guess my problem was the first bike in years I had was a brand new 2005 636 ninja. More power than I'd ever need or want. So the KLX is in need. I throttle her to the max all the time. Butmy ninja had trouble writing all over it... I brought the klx as away to ride and still be able to have a license. Just want alittle more power. The speeds of a 100 km/h is fine. Beside the major highways are no place for the KLX. She roles the back road and I like that type of riding. You're all right. Skill are more important than power. Just alittle is whatI want. It should have been a 331 cc with a pumper carb and I think it would have been a major seller in that form. That seams to be what makes most KLX owners happy.
I guess my problem was the first bike in years I had was a brand new 2005 636 ninja. More power than I'd ever need or want. So the KLX is in need. I throttle her to the max all the time. Butmy ninja had trouble writing all over it... I brought the klx as away to ride and still be able to have a license. Just want alittle more power. The speeds of a 100 km/h is fine. Beside the major highways are no place for the KLX. She roles the back road and I like that type of riding. You're all right. Skill are more important than power. Just alittle is whatI want. It should have been a 331 cc with a pumper carb and I think it would have been a major seller in that form. That seams to be what makes most KLX owners happy.
#29
RE: WHY IT'S ONLY A 250
ORIGINAL: gerrynolan
Does anyone know if I can minimize the dive at all with adjustments?
Does anyone know if I can minimize the dive at all with adjustments?
#30
RE: WHY IT'S ONLY A 250
ORIGINAL: gerrynolan
+1 on Ruling the back roads. I blow past Harleys all the time on the twisties.
I do want to beef up the front springs on mine too though. I'm only about 160 Lbs but I still get nose dive while braking. Does anyone know if I can minimize the dive at all with adjustments?
+1 on Ruling the back roads. I blow past Harleys all the time on the twisties.
I do want to beef up the front springs on mine too though. I'm only about 160 Lbs but I still get nose dive while braking. Does anyone know if I can minimize the dive at all with adjustments?
You might be able to get away with some stiffer springs. At your weight there probablyOK for you, but still on the soft side considering the way the bike was set up for, trailriding.
Race Tech has a webpage where you can plug in your weight andbike to finda close spring weight.
You could also go a tad thicker on fork oil too.