Holy jeebus, what a royal PITA that thing is.

I was out in the woods today by myself, having the most fun I've had in weeks, and then suddenly things weren't working so good. After some quick checking to try to rule out anything damaging, I managed to baby it home with the choke pulled. Figured I had a dirty jet, so set about to pop the bottom off the carb and fix it. Easy to say. After an hour or so of fiddling with this and that and giving up on simply pulling the airbox off, I had the thing popped out of the boots and tipped up so I could barely get at the screws. I am sure I halved the life of the airbox-to-carb boot in doing so, and I left knuckle skin in various places.

How the heck are you supposed to get the carb (& the airbox) off this thing?

(Operation was successfull BTW, found a fuzzy piece of something in my pilot jet - I think I'll go research putting a filter in somewhere now...)

 

After doing it a few times it is easier. The best way is to remove the Fuel tank and remove the carb through the top although it is still a pita. If you change the float bowl screws to allen heads you can get the bowl off by rotating the carb.
I put a second in line filter on mine.

 

I found no easy way. I had your same problem a year ago. I loosened the boots and turned the carb sideways. Then took off drain screw. I shot carb cleaner through the top of the carb,into the main jet and up into the bowl drain. The carb cleaner must have made it through all of the jets that were dirty. It ran perfect after that.

 

Patients it what it takes to be a mechanic. I are one. I get paid by the hour and keep thinking that.

Its a PIA no matter what but if you expect it to take an hour its not so bad when it does.

David

 

I just can't believe they made it so hard to get the carb off - it's not exactly unheard of to have to service a carb once in a while. Even the airbox looks like it's in there forever -if that could be slid out with simple bolt removal everything else should follow. Looks like they stuck the airbox in there then finished welding the frame around it. I just hope I got things all buttoned back up so they'll stay put.

 

Airbox is a big pain to get out, but doesnt need to come out for carb removal. The carb is not as bad. Carb comes out best straight up through the frame after you have removed the gas tank. Do as Redpillar says, if you take the carb out, replace the philips head machine screws with allen head (stainless) screws. Someone else on here taught me that trick in 2008. This will allow you to change jets etc later by simply unscrewing the throttle cable bracket and rotating the carb in the boots. This is still working in tight quarters, but much less monkey business than removing the whole carb.
Dan

 

Easier with the KLX300R high flow airboot (AUS bikes have) as its rubber and not hard plastic, so it's easier to remove from the carb', and a lot easier to fit to the carb'.

 

It is better to use non stainless screws, as stainless will react with the aluminium carb body and corrode eventually. I have noticed a reaction on mine.

 

You can get to the needle easily with the tank pulled. The other jets can be accessed with the carb twisted around (I pull the throttle cables off the carb) so the bowl is on the pipe side. The 1 st is a pita, but replace the bowl screws with socket heads and using a ball style allen wrench it's a cake walk the 2nd time. It's the perimeter frame that make it hard, you should try my crf arg.

 

Hmmmmm I guess I need to take a close look at mine.