who can wheelie cleanly, W/O ANY clutch usage?
#21
I've never used the clutch to do a wheelie, I start a slow roll and give it the old lean back and throttle snap. I hit second gear once. I usually only get a 30 to 40 footer out of it before the rpm's are too high. That's good enough for me.
#22
DEEJ, THANK YOU! hahah with that simple reply you just told me EXACTLY what i want my KLX to do....I dont care about riding them out, i just want to snap the throttle and lean back a little and stand er up for a bit...this thread did turn out to be pretty cool, though...and a 101 course for proper wheele-ING technique with sweet videos...i love these forums.
#23
@ 300cc I can easily do third gear standups, no clutch. Fourth will also come up no clutch with some finess(but usually it take a small bump). I added 1 more tooth in the rear, but haven't rode it yet. 4th gear wheelies should be more easily obtainable now with it. I normally stay away from 4th gear though because speeds are starting to get up there at that point.
If you are learning wheelies and want to ride them, I would try them in 2nd. They will be a lot more smooth and less twitchy, even though the speeds will be greater. Clutching up wheelies are also more controlled then no clutch.
If you are learning wheelies and want to ride them, I would try them in 2nd. They will be a lot more smooth and less twitchy, even though the speeds will be greater. Clutching up wheelies are also more controlled then no clutch.
#24
After reading your last post. Stay in 1st at slow speeds. Jerk the throttle slightly on and off to get the suspension rocking. Then go from throttle off(when the forks are compressed) to nailing the gas. Then hold on.
#25
I believe my bike is set up pretty close to DEEJ's. Except I have the FMF Power-Bomb header with an HMF Can, were as DEEJ is running a full muzzy system. I would argue that they both run very close if not the same as each other.
I can pull it in first no problem and keep it going thru 3rd easily, but thats the practice thing. It's kinda funny this thread came up cause i was just pustin with the KLX last week-end. Put the stock exhaust header and muffler back on just to see or remind me what the difference really is ( guess I was bored early in the morning.....) Keep in my my stock muffler was modded not just drilled but a larger outlet put in. Anyway the snap that were talking about is goes away real fast. other that that it was about the same just a bit quieter and the stock muffler is REALLY heavy compared to any after market slip-on. Even though I have a modified quiet core in my HMF I would prefer it to be a little quiter but not much more I can do about that.
So, as it's been told many times here in this forum, It's a "250" dual-purpose bike and take it for what it really is, a Excellent 250cc DP. By opening up breathing both front / back it will run very well and also for a VERY long time with no issues.
I can pull it in first no problem and keep it going thru 3rd easily, but thats the practice thing. It's kinda funny this thread came up cause i was just pustin with the KLX last week-end. Put the stock exhaust header and muffler back on just to see or remind me what the difference really is ( guess I was bored early in the morning.....) Keep in my my stock muffler was modded not just drilled but a larger outlet put in. Anyway the snap that were talking about is goes away real fast. other that that it was about the same just a bit quieter and the stock muffler is REALLY heavy compared to any after market slip-on. Even though I have a modified quiet core in my HMF I would prefer it to be a little quiter but not much more I can do about that.
So, as it's been told many times here in this forum, It's a "250" dual-purpose bike and take it for what it really is, a Excellent 250cc DP. By opening up breathing both front / back it will run very well and also for a VERY long time with no issues.
#28
sweet....unfortunately i encountered a setback...i was in a fairly nasty wreck the other day, and warped my front wheel all to ****....so now i gotta get a new wheel and front brake hose and gear shifter(already got the shifter and hoses for 20 bucks one ebay!)....where do you guys think i could get a new wheel at for the best price without having to sacrifice too much quality....eventually, ima get me some excel rims, but in the meantime i just want something to throw back on..
#29
Cheapest would be for your local shop to rebuild with a new rim on the stock hub. Rims go for about $100 I think. Add spokes and labor to that.
My bike came stock with Excel rims. Didn't yours??
My bike came stock with Excel rims. Didn't yours??