Conversations are down so I'll start something up, I'm curious as to what everyones running here. I just figured out how to get everything all situated to completely rotate the carb in the boots so I can adjust the screw, change both the main and pilot jets...and of course move the needle if need be. Still a pain in the rear.. but better than before.

I'm just wandering before I button it up what I should set everything at. I have the stock exhaust, backfire screen cut out, UNI filter, snorkel removed, cank vent drilled and I live at around 1000 ft. (give or take a few hundred on average) and I ride up to 2000 ft. (also give and take a few hundred on average). My bore is stock 250cc and I usually run either a 12, 13, or stock 14 counter sprocket. Right now I have the 12t on.

OK, taking all that into consideration... I was running a 38 pilot ( it came like that), screw 2 turns out, 130 main (Keihn), N1TC needle on middle clip (3rd one down). The bottom end was rich I'm assuming. It did the whole thing where when it got warmer (the engine) it ran worse. On real cold days when running on the road it would stall at stop signs. It seemed to miss riding real slow through the woods. The mid range seemed to have fair snap to it. And the top end was the best of all. It reallllly seemed to like the top end.

My goal was always to end up removing the airbox lid, but because I noticed after doing this jetting setup it wasn't running right, and did better with the lid on and snorkel out, thats the way I left it...temporarily. Well, now its time to remedy that situation. I put the 35 pilot in, split the difference and set it at 2 3/4 turns out. Left the needle in the middle groove (3rd down) and put in a 135 main. Thats like a DJ 126, which doesnt come in either the '09 250S kit or the 300 kit. They go from 124 (K 132.5) and jump to a 128 (K 137.5)

Post up what you got. I'm curious to see what others are running.

Oh, and I checked my plug too. The procelain was a llight tan and the grounding electrode up top, or whatever it is was heat scored only halfway. So aparantly it was burning as good as could be as long as I kept it in the mid range or above. Hopefully I can get that bottom end problem taken care of and now start all over with the lid off. Oh well, if it causes too much trouble, I know what settings I can go back to that work.
________
Homemade vaporizers

 

250cc. Two Brothers M7 slip on. No airbox lid. Twin Air filter. Backfire screen removed. KLX300R hi-flow air boot. OE N1RX needle raised 2.5 mm. OE spring. Keihin #138 main jet. Keihin #38 pilot jet. Kouba fuel screw 1.75 turns out. The "good" Jap' CDI that has more advance. NGK Iridium plug. Sea level to 1000ft.
Runs great. I can feel the need for a larger header. The bike definitely wants to blow more gas but the header is the weak link. I'm happy though.

 

250cc, stock pilot jet, full big gun exhaust w/ quiet core, a/f screw 2.5 turns out, no snorkel lid still on, uni, backfire screen there, 128 main, N1TC needle, i think its on the 3rd position, pvc valve in the crankcase breather tube, any where from 800'-1200' elev. NGK iridium spark plug..... um..... i think thats it....

 

Stock bore and exhaust (for now). 128 DJ main jet, stock pilot, needle is on the middle clip (although I'm debating moving it up one, IDK). snorkel removed from the airbox lid, stock filter + screeen. I live down near sea level (from a few dozen feet above, up to maybe 300 feet above on the tippy top of a hill).

 

cliffsta, wow...128 DJ for stock filter, exhaust, and middle needle position. I know your near sea level but holy poop. Thats alot of petro! Is it running rich at all?
________
Www.**** tube.com

 

128 main (keihin)
stock pilot
needle shimmed 1mm
kouba fuel screw 2 turns out
fmf q4 (spark screen removed)
kdx 200 snorkel
smog stuff gone
crankcase breather vented to top of frame with a filter

 

I don't think so? It doesn't smell rich. Haven't pulled the plug yet. My dad thinks it might be rich, but IDK. It runs really well. About 2.5 turns out on the A/F screw. Maybe when I order my tires and rear sprocket, I'll throw in a Uni air filter.

Can I pull the plug without removing the tank? I need a service manual

 

124 dynojet main jet
stock pilot
stock can
a/f screw 3 turns out,, goin to turn it in another half soon
snorkel removed
13t sprocket
elevation 3557 ft above sea level

 

250cc
128 dj
dj needle, 2nd clip
no snorkle
a/f screw 2 1/2 turns out
1000-2000 feet asl

 

Everyone else here can but me. I have to take the tank off. I just can't get my hands to move around in there.


Everyone else here really seems to have a pretty good variance on their settings. Its not like if you have the same thing done at the same elevation you'll all have to have the same jets and what not. Very interesting.

I also forgot to mention my slide is drilled in the carb, not that thats important, but its done. And I also just removed the air injection, if I forgot to mention it. I'm doing so many small things I'm forgetting them all. For the air injection removal I got those vacuum seals at Advanced Auto, they work PERFECTLY! Like its own elimination kit. I also just took the fan off. That should get the air flowing through there better now without that thing blocking it. I rode it in hot humid weather in the woods putting around and on hot tarmac. If its not gonna turn on then its not going to. And even if it did, if it only turns on for a second then right back off its not really needed. Its more space and weight and air obsctruction than anything. As far as I can tell when it does turn on it blows air forwards the reverse way it naturally flows through the rad.
________
Essential vaaapp vaporizer