I'm still on stock suspension and I'm thinking about doing a re-valve for better trail manners. The only option I've read about so far are Racetech Gold Valves. Are there any other brands I should be looking at?

And to those of you who did make the switch to Gold Valves, how dramatic was the improvement over stock?

 

You should include year and model.
For the forks, I agree that Racetech is the way to go with the stock forks. The valving in them is minimal. The shock can be reshimmed to suit your riding style. Be sure to install fork and shock springs to match your riding weight.

Ride on
Brewster

 

i went to gold valves and springs (front and rear) on my 2012 351 using the desert style class b for dual sport riding. I'm loving the improvement but as of right now i valved it for 10 lbs over my weight but sprung it a bit softer and the combo just works perfect for me!

 

It's a 2019 250S

 

Does it feel more plush now and smoother underneath you? The trails in my area have a lot of rocks and roots so I'm trying to get the bike more plush during slower, technical riding with a lot of bumps.

 

Does it feel more plush now and smoother underneath you? The trails in my area have a lot of rocks and roots so I'm trying to get the bike more plush during slower, technical riding with lots of bumps.

 

its more plush but on the stiff side, if your doing trails and want plush go for soft of your weight under the trails sections

 

I installed Goldvalves f&r on my '12 along with a 6.0 spring on the rear.
The biggest difference between oe and what I have now is much better square-edge bump absorption.
The shim stacks they suggested were quite good for my style of riding.

 

'06 H6, lack of rebound in the fork was biggest problem with my old bike. (looks like same fork as 2020, sigh... Got worse when I put "correct" springs for my weight and pace. Tire would bounce and hop not stay planted because the fixed rebound couldn't control the energy of the bigger springs rebounding. Springs were custom .49, about the biggest that can go in those forks and fit the spring seats and not rub the tubes. Ended up taking them out and putting something lighter back in and just slowing down, using the comp to try keep the bike up, comp on #1, higher oil level. Tried different weight oils and combinations of what I had to work with, for a free best I could do. Never got back to it, still have the bike.

edit, Used a 6.4 on the rear which was about right for my 190 weight. Downside of the spring, aftermarket springs are straight, klx springs are honeycomb wound smaller at the top so they don't rub the airboot. I worked around it because it was so close, but after several rides I noticed I was rubbing. Not wanting to suck dust I threw the stock 5.8 back on and wound it up more, and slowed down.

 

This is the first I've read about replacement springs not correctly fitting without interference. Is this indicative for all replacement brands, or just the brand you chose? Hard to believe it's a universal problem.