[QUOTE=KLX25O;520865]


Duro has the stock size/profile as well as one taller and one smaller. That was why I posted the pictures, they actually make the stock size, so you get the tread that works in the size you need.

Oddly enough the 4.60-18 is identical to the 120/80-18, probably because some manufacturers call for a 4.60 and others for the 120/80, so they just do both sidewall markings.

There were a few reasons I did the 4.10-18, I mentioned the narrower tire working better for the power of the 250 along with lighter weight taking less power, but there was another reason that was a bonus. The 4.10-18 sells for $55.18 where the 120/80 is $75.15 at Bike Bandit. I don't see it worth the extra money for 4.8" of width when the 4" tire will have pretty much the same performance.

 

[QUOTE=klx678;520875][QUOTE=KLX25O;520865]





Do you change your own tires? the front seems like it would be easy to change. How hard is it to change the rear tire? Does the chain need adjusting afterwards?

tools needed? list.

haven't called the motorcycle shop for a price on a tire change. the auto shop I get my tires changed at doesn't do tire changes for motorcycles,

 

I do my own and also have a shop do them. Depends on how I feel and how much to have them done. I think it was like $50 mounted and balanced when I took in the wheels.

I have a set of tire irons from Harbor Freight, long ones. I also have a set of small irons, but I think someone has them... or I lost them. Long irons make the work easier, short ones can be packed on a bike.

I will put the tube in the 21 after slightly inflating it then pulling the core out of the stem. I stick the stem through the hole in the rim and use the extra nut to hold it, just threading it on enough to hold. I soap up the bead and work the one side on the rim, then work the other side on ending at the stem (no rim locks).

With the rear I usually put one side of the tire on then fit the tube in the tire with a small amount of air in the tube, stem core removed. Then I mount the one side using some dish soap diluted a bit with water to lubricate the beads. Spread it on generously, it will make things slip on easier plus helping pop the tire up on the bead.

Work in small amounts using one tool to hold the bead on at one point working around with the other. I work to the stem, no rim locks.

I'm sure some others will have some tips too. Some use talcum powder instead of soap. Some have other methods to mount. Key is to do everything you can to avoid pinching the tube and make sure the tube is down in the tire at the stem after it is all mounted. Also make sure you get the whole tire bead seated on the rim. You can tell by looking at the edge around the rim. Do not go ultra high pressure, the bead should be able to seat with no more than around 40-50 psi. This is where a lot of soapy water comes into play.

Chain only needs adjusted if you changed sprockets or loosened the adjustment. I don't loosen the adjusters since there is enough play in the chain to both remove and refit the back wheel without messing with them.

 

[QUOTE=klx678;520940]I do my own and also have a shop do them. Depends on how I feel and how much to have them done. I think it was like $50 mounted and balanced when I took in the wheels.


I called two different motorcycle shops, and they asked the same thing, if I was going to bring in the tires.

one shop I was quoted $80-$100
one shop I was quoted $90.

that's without bringing the tires in.

one more question, do the tires have to balanced, and how would you balance them if I was putting the tires on myself.

 

That's a rip-off IMO, unless you just don't have any free time or don't enjoy working on your bike. Balancing isn't even difficult to do yourself, and even unbalanced tires won't matter too much unless you're at high speeds or balance is way out of whack. And you can use Ride On Tire Sealant to help with both balancing and puncture resistance as well.

If you're not going super crazy stiff puncture- and pinch- resistant like I did (ultra heavy duty inner tubes + thick, stiff 6-ply tires), you could change your own tires within an hour while watching youtube how-to videos and maybe $30-50 worth of tools that you can use for years and years.

I went overboard on stuff I used to do my own tire change, but I plan on always doing my own, and I love having extra tools to make job easier/faster:

1) Long tire irons. 2 is good, 3 is best. Maybe $8-15 each? Most important things to have. I got these ones because their shape made things easy.

2) Valve core remover and cap. 2-in-one flips upside down and removes the valve core to quickly deflate your tires, and also acts as the tire stem caps. These are super cheap. Like less than a dollar.

3) Bead lock. Motion Pro Bead Buddy here.
Worth the $13. Also not as necessary for softer/less rigid tires. But helps.

4) Tusk Valve Stem puller. $7. Not necessary for most people, but helped me a lot with my stiff front tire. Like immediately solved an issue that would've taken me a long time to manhandle otherwise. Didn't need it at all for my rear tire.

5) Something to lubricate tires/make changing them easier. Dish soap works. I bought a yamalube spray of some kind that I was really impressed with.

6) Talcum powder, baby powder, baking soda powder...

You'll find youtube videos of people changing a tire in a matter of minutes. But for your first time, it will take longer. I suspect after changing out both my stiff tires and getting the hang of the technique right at the end, my next tire changes could be done within 10-15 minutes per tire tops.