Isn't is an air screw on a two stroke and a fuel screw on a four stroke?

IG's bike has both?

 

What's better, the Evo R or Evo X? motorcycle-superstore.com has the Evo R with header pipe (though it looks short) for $432

I estimate I'll be 75% road 25% dirt or wherever. I do not want to lose my road abilities! I'm looking into some street tires, possibly even some 17 inch wheels. I should've just gone with the Yamaha WR250X, but the sales guy was all aggressive and whatnot. It's cool I guess, there's a large community around this bike, and plenty of mods for it too.

 

before u get a BG call them and verify that they are using stainless not steel for their pipes.. trust me on that one.

 

I'm confused. Call who? And I'm asking if they are using stainless steel or what else?

 

listen up HERE....do not worry about what they're using. their steel is ceramic coated and looks like new where SS will turn colors but will last longer than regular steel that is not ceramic coated. My BG ceramic coated header cleaned itself. My daughter rested her crocs on it one ride; nearly burnt through it and made a huge mess on the header. it burnt itself off on its own and looked like new after it was gone. I was amazed. BG is using SS on the EvoR, but the X, if you can still get them are ceramic coated steel. either one is okay but the R is louder than the X and offers no power gains over the X and the X is really loud. their fitment is oem quality though.

a/f screw is technically a fuel scew yes on a 4-stroke, but the term has been thrown around here as an a/f screw that if you change it up people will get confused.

 

i can provide pics of what the steel big guns look like after a couple of years if you would like, that mainly being ****

 

Oh, well since we're perpetuating names for things that don't exist. My bike has a finibulator and it gives me an extra 50HP!

WooHoo!

Ig, when you say things like "Listen up HERE..." It comes off as arrogant and self important....just sayin. It's as if everyone else who has anything to contribute is useless. again, just sayin.

If you're fuel screw is out 2.5 turns, you may want to go up one on the pilot jet...just a suggestion...

Agreed the 13T will kill your cruising speed on the road, likewise a 14T with a 48 Rear will do the same. Unless you like riding in the 5-6K rpm range cruising at 50/55, leave your gearing alone....to whomever wanted to ride 75% road/25% dirt.

In my most humblest opinion, jet your carb right with any aftermarket exhaust and get a motion pro vortex throttle and see if that doesn't give you the response you're looking for.

The low end grunt probably isn't what you need if you're just trail riding and not enduro riding or hill climbing or spending a lot of time in deep sand/mud.

Just a thought...just messin' with ya IG.

Bob

 

Try this for doing your fork springs. Moderately easy mod.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...t=fork+springs
Basic stuff like setting the Static SAG, fork compression/rebound/preload, can all be Googled or YouTubed.
Same goes for the shock compression/ rebound and preload.
It's fun finding the best setting for your type of riding.

 

um, my fuel screw isn't out 2.5 turns, and I think the rule is 3 turns out and you need to go up in pilot jet size.

motion pro does nothing to the carb, just the throttle. it does not make anything respond faster. we've been over this. the carb throttle is still the same, responds at the same speed and isn't sped up over the stock throttle. it's all in how fast one can twist their wrist. for streetability, the motion pro would be harder to modulate since it's either all on or all off pretty much.

 

Here is a video that describes step by step how to properly setup the suspension on a KLX250.

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=5H4S0S...eature=related