Just wondering what oil and filters people are using for their KLXs.

I was using only Maxima ProPlus until my most recent oil change, where I switched to Valvoline full synthetic 4 stroke oil for the cost savings. Shift feel seems to be the same if not better than it was with the Maxima, so I'll continue to use it for now. Always 10W-40 as spec'd.

I've only used Kawasaki OEM filters with the exception of one Wix.

How 'bout y'all?

 

I'm using Kawasaki filters, always know it's the right one and not all that expensive and they work fine. I've been using the JASO MA Rotella. I don't get too shook up about running synthetic, but might go that direction in the future. Not like I'm squeezing the last .0001 hp out of the engine.

 

Mobil 1 4T 10w/40 oil and K&N KN-112 filter. I tend to change the old tech street bikes on a cycle of 3333 miles (3 changes every 10k). The VFRs go 8k per change.

 

I was going to ask about intervals here too. The Kawasaki manual I believe says 7,500 miles, which just seems ridiculous. I don't know about you guys, but I'm running at the top of the tach on the KLX a ton. I change oil about every 1,500 miles. That's about when the shift feel starts noticeably degrading.

 

No matter what your grandfather did, current oils can easily do 8000 miles and still be serviceable. Sure oil breaks down, but not to the point where it cannot do its job and one of its job is to keep engines clean and suspend contaminants in the oil to be cleaned out by the oil filter. For off roading the interval would make sense at around 4000 miles with filter. Listen to the comment at 3:30 minutes.


Whether you agree or not, the science is what dictates oil change intervals are given and those are probably very conservative.

Back in the mid 80s we sent a Kendal car oil sample out for testing, it had 2500 miles and was run in a Gold Wing. The results showed the oil was still totally serviceable. I am bad my truck when it comes to il samples, but I usually run vehicles to full operating temperature darn near every time I drive them. I sent out a sample to Blackstone, had well over 10,000 miles and around 2 years on it (2020-2021). Results showed the oil was still good, but due for changing. Engine has around 200,000 miles on it.

In the 40s and 50s when oil was mostly straight grade and no additives, along with lesser quality metallurgy in engine materials and sometimes no oil filter, a 2000 mile interval made sense. In the 60s with multi-grade, better additive packages, intervals went up. By the 80s better engine material metallurgy and better additives made it so Mobile 1 was claiming 15,000 miles without change. They backed off their claim because of poor reception, not because it couldn't do it, clearly they did the research and testing to make that claim, but people wouldn't believe or accept the claim. Now it isn't unusual to see oil companies and vehicle manufacturers to recommend 8000 mile oil change intervals with absolute confidence. Think about it, valve check and adjustment intervals are double that of the 70s and some are even 20,000+ miles now.

Even the companies that make more money by selling you more product are recommending the higher mileage interval. Shell LubeMatch click here shows the 7500 mile interval for the KLX250. They showed 6000 miles for my Yamaha XSR700. You'd think they'd be promoting to sell more product.

But I know there are a lot of riders who won't believe the science and that's fine. Just seems like a waste to toss out good oil, but that's a choice. Don't believe me, send a sample to Blackstone and see what they tell you. click here for Blackstone Labs Spend the $35 for standard analysis and see what they find.

 

I have a Blackstone kit ready to go and I've read about oil for years ad nauseum. I only recently actually started going away from PAO oils in my car and bike to Group 3 oils because the benefit of PAO doesn't seem to matter in my applications, and I do run extended intervals in my car.

In the bike, I go by shift feel because I don't enjoy the mushy feel at the lever after a certain point is reached. I can't be the only one who notices it.

Also, I love Ari Henning. As a counter to his "follow the manual unless you're racing", that effectively means follow the manual unless you run your bike at sustained high RPM, which I do. I'm geared shorter than stock so when I take my bike onto the highway for example I'm wide open at 9,000+ RPM for periods of time, not a short burst up the tach and back down again. I'll see what Blackstone says, but I'd be shocked if they gave me the green light to run oil in this bike to 7,500.

 

I won't be surprised. If a manufacturer is making that recommendation I'm betting they're going on the conservative side. Sustained rpm is really less stressful with a constant load than constant on and off full throttle like in racing and definitely off roading. I will say one thing, in the 22 years of full and part time work in a mid size dealership and in the shop a lot, I've never seen an actual oil failure. Only lack-of-oil failure.

I will say I look forward to what you learn from Blackstone.

 

Is there any other way to ride these bikes? You're either cruising at high RPM or you're on and off full throttle, pretty much.

 

When you put it that way, I would venture to say with some confidence, that's how Kawasaki tested the bike and then gave their maintenance recommendations.

 

Aside from my track bikes, and even rarely then, I've not found much point in running around at redline. WIth minimal benefit, what does it do for you, greychinos?