Why not just use the clutch? I know you don't want to, but it works on the bike real well with the mods you have- I know cause all I have is the KDX snorkle, jets, and a 13t. I have no problem in the trails putting the front end over stuff just by fanning the clutch.
Power wheelies are another story.

 

It's just so much easier to just flick the right wrist if you need to loft right then and there. Yes I suppose I can start practicing my timing and fanning technique of the clutch. It's either that or spend $400 to make a DP bike do something that it should have been able to do in the first place.

 

True, I reckon it's second nature to me by now. I clutch up my two strokes too... Just always have. It really is faster than compresing the forks, shifting your body, off the throttle, on the throttle, tug the bars....
In the trails I usually need to lift the wheel over something that doesn't give me much time to set-up for it. Two fingering the clutch is just real quick once you get the hang of it.

 

Turned into quite the Carb/power debate thread while I was gone for a week.. including some healthy bashing from alternate bike options it seems lol

I started this basically assuming that any DS bike would have the ability to pull the front on demand at least in 1st gear, just by rocking the throttle. even my XR100 dirtbike will loft the front wheel with throttle.. with my considerable bulk on it.

It sounds to me more and more like wheelies are an ergonomic issue on this bike, which I can live with happily. With my current mods it occasionally pulls the front slightly under heavy acceleration in 1st or on cold nights heading into second. I know I can pump the fork and find the right spot in revs, or squeeze the clutch and abuse it to pull the front... But it never pulls the front in a way that results in me needing to moderate the throttle of avoid over doing it... more like it pulls it in a way that I wish I had just a bit more to carry the front.

It's not a question of knowing how to get a wheelie based on need, just a question of wondering if at some point in mods this bike reaches that state or nirvana at which just flicking the throttle will pull the front up to a place where you have to back off to keep it from going down in the wrong direction, which from the sounds of things, is not in the below $1000 in mods place.

 

The KLX250S may not be the most powerful bike, but ya know what, i keep up with my buddies KTM450's and Husaberg 450 and 570's in the tight woods. They dont hesitate to call me for rides where it is going to be fast paced. I love my klx, i may go to the 300 kit in the future, but its good for now. Bottom line, if you want a bike to do roll on wheelies, sell the klx and buy something else.

 

giving up roll on wheelies for all the other fun I have on this bike is a no brainer for me. I haven't had this much fun riding since the first time I climbed on a 80cc honda moped and snuck 2 gears higher than my parents told me I was allowed out in the woods back home.

 

EMS just curious, are you thinking of the 300 kit over the bigger kits because it is a Kawasaki kit and not an aftermarket kit?

 

Yes, and that i dont need that much more power, if i want a bunch more i will just look for a different bike. Its not cost effective to put that much money into a bike IMO. I rode a KLX with the 300 kit on it and it felt good.

 

One thing I liked about the 351 Kit, was the huge flat torque curve it showed on they dyno, started early went high and just stayed there. I like an engine that's a chugger for riding around the woods. I'd be curious about the 300's performance in this department and how much gain is had over it with the 351 in HP as well.

 

The 351 is a torque monster.. It's like a big block V8 compared to a high revving 4.