Hi,

I recently swapped out my chain and sprocket (got a longer chain and cut it down), which made me realize 2 things:

1. The Tusk chain tools I got from RMATV are crap.
2. I'm a bit confused on what exactly I'd be able to do for chain repair out in the woods.

In the mountain bike world, every link of the chain is easily pressed out, so I just carry about 10 spare links and can fix whatever part of the chain is broken.

In the motorcycle world, all of the links other than the master are riveted. And most chain tools (especially the ones you would want to carry along) are not capable of breaking/pressing rivets. I have 2 spare master links I carry along, but these only help if my chain conveniently breaks a master link, or a section that a masterlink will fit exactly. Am I missing something? It seems like there isn't much point to carrying spare chain (non-master) links, cause you wouldn't have the capabilities of making those work in the field.

I've been looking at this motion pro tool:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0467/

It seems like a pretty comprehensive trail tool, and would work way better than the crappy tusk ones.

What chain tool do you guys carry and what do you expect to be able to fix on the trail?

 

Now a days chain failures aren't as common as they once were. I don't carry any chain related stuff any more, maybe I should but I haven't had a chain failure since ...well I can't even remember. I did however completely destroy the stock POS chain guide on my KLX. Even then the chain didn't come off. I've since replaced it with one from Fredette Racing and that thing is bulletproof. I'd say get a good quality o-ring chain, steel sprockets, and a heavy duty chain guide, keep it tightened and lubed properly and save the room for inner tubes.

 

Here's a good link to this same information discussed over the last week or so. No sense doubling up on information.

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=31249

Search is awesome here.

 

Yea, I've read that thread in it's entirety and it doesn't really cover my question, which is why I created a separate, more specific, post.

 

Here's the chain tool I use (scroll down towards the bottom of the page):

http://www.mikesxs.net/products-7.html

The price is $50.00 unless you buy a chain from him at the same time. Then he charges $25.00 for the tool.

Ron

Edited to mention that I don't carry this on the bike. I only use it in the shop.

 

Definitely agree with that. Quality chains on such a low horsepower bike are probably not going to be challenged. Yeah, it's not always about horsepower, but a KLX and the way 99.99% of the riders will use it will probably never have a chain issue unless other service and adjustment issues are disregarded. Oddly, I have never even used a bradded master link on any of my bikes, road or dirt. I raced enduros and had some Kawasaki H2 750 triples, 900/1000 Z1's, and other decent performance bikes and never had a chain problem. Lube the chain, keep it adjusted, replace it and the sprockets when required, and problems should be kept at a minimum.

 

I carry no tools for the chain, and really no tools in general when on the bike. As long as you have a good quality chain you'll be ok. A master link is probably good to carry, you never know when you might spit a clip off, and if the chain would break you could put it back together. One note on master links, not all 520 chains use the same master links, some of the pins are different sizes. If you are going to carry a link, make sure it fits your chain.

 

Thanks for the responses. I didn't realize so few people carried a chain tool. I guess all I really need are some chain specific master links and a way to get them on the chain.

On a side note, there are some cool tools at great prices in that link posted.

 

NONE.................... is that Bad?

 

no chain tool, but I carry a short section with a few links, some m link parts, and a 5/8 (#50) machinery offset link that is female on one end and male on the other so I can banadid it back together no matter where it breaks without having to break the chain. This was after spending an hour trying to file the pins off so i could press one apart 1 time in the mountains. Never owned a small chain breaker that worked without 1 st grinding the pin head off.

Here's one of those offset links available at most hardware supplys, not the best fix but it'll get you out.