well........i told you so.
#11
RE: well........i told you so.
I was lucky as it ran well out of the box. Bill tested on his bike, it worked on hisand we are at the same elevation . If you haven't already pulled the smog stuff, now is the time. There is not a place to plug the vacuum hose into the new carb. I would also remove the ground wire from the battery just to be on the safe side. You will be working right above the starter and sparks are bad when doing carb work.
1. Remove plastics, seat, and tank. Remove the petcock bolts and it will pull out with the tank. Be sure to turn the gas off before removing the gas line. Get new screw clamps for the carb and petcock ahead of time toeliminate crappy stock clamps. Keep an eye on the fuel tank vent hose routing. I'd suggest taking some pictures before taking things apart to aid in re-assembly.
2.Take apartthrottle assembly at handlebars (two screws, white cable guide, and housing). The cable toward the front of the bike is the push cable and will not be needed with the new carb. You can either plug the empty hole with RTV or a set screw of the same size with some loctite. Remove push cable from bike.
3. Follow throttle position sensor wire from carb back up to the connector up by the frame. There is a latch that will need pushed in to separate the two halves of the connector. Once the latch is pushed in far enough it will come apart fairly easily. I'm doing this from memory but think you will need to cut a couple wire ties to get the wire harness out of the way. You will also need to move the wire harness out of the little frame bracket to make room to get the carb out.
4. Loosen clamps on air boot from the air box and where carb connects to the motor. Loosen the throttle cables at the carb and remove cable mounting bracket. I found it easier to pull the carb away from the motor first then pull the boot off. Loosen the clamp on the air boot enough to slide the clamp back out of the way. Pull carb straight up through the frame (may seem more like a jigsaw puzzle at this point). Also if using my method, tip carb in such a direction to let the gas flow freely through the vent hose, down your pant leg and all over the garage floor. Not a good time for a smoke break.
5. Remove throttle cable bracket from new carb.
6. Lube air boot and inlet to engine with lite coat of wd-40 to aid in assembly.
7. Remove little wire bracket that holds the idle adjuster as it will be re-mounted under the rear brake fluid resevoir bolt. Let it hang for now but keep an eye on it as well as the vent lines since they will end up somewhere in the way, just because they can. Malcom's Law, Murphy invented it but I perfected it.
8. Slide carb inlet into air boot then push it back to get the carb outlet into motor. It may be a good idea to reattach the throttle cable to the carb at this point to check for clearance during throttle movement. On mine there is a tab on the carb throttle mechanism that hit the frame. Test for clearance by pulling the cable up by the handlebars. If it hits the frame, turn the top of the carb to the right side of bike to create clearance.
9. Install idle adjuster hanger under rear brake fluid reservoir bolt.
10. Install throttle cable bracket, throttle cable and throttle assembly. I think 1/4 inch of free play is called out for as an adjustment but I prefer less play. I keep it just loose enough to not effect engine idle RPM.
11. Drop gas tank into place. You will need to put a little twist in the gas line since the fuel inlet is in a different location on the new carb (put new clamps on line first). Re-attach petcock to bracket.
12. Secure wire harness to original locations with new wire ties.
13. Turn on fuel and check for leaks.
14. Reattach ground wire to battery.
15. Twist throttle three times and try to start. If it doesn't start right away pull the choke out and try again.
16.After it starts, let it warm up for a short time and push in choke. Will probably need to adjust idle at this point.
17. Let the bike warm up good then adjust air fuel mixture.
18. Reinstall seat and plastics.
1. Remove plastics, seat, and tank. Remove the petcock bolts and it will pull out with the tank. Be sure to turn the gas off before removing the gas line. Get new screw clamps for the carb and petcock ahead of time toeliminate crappy stock clamps. Keep an eye on the fuel tank vent hose routing. I'd suggest taking some pictures before taking things apart to aid in re-assembly.
2.Take apartthrottle assembly at handlebars (two screws, white cable guide, and housing). The cable toward the front of the bike is the push cable and will not be needed with the new carb. You can either plug the empty hole with RTV or a set screw of the same size with some loctite. Remove push cable from bike.
3. Follow throttle position sensor wire from carb back up to the connector up by the frame. There is a latch that will need pushed in to separate the two halves of the connector. Once the latch is pushed in far enough it will come apart fairly easily. I'm doing this from memory but think you will need to cut a couple wire ties to get the wire harness out of the way. You will also need to move the wire harness out of the little frame bracket to make room to get the carb out.
4. Loosen clamps on air boot from the air box and where carb connects to the motor. Loosen the throttle cables at the carb and remove cable mounting bracket. I found it easier to pull the carb away from the motor first then pull the boot off. Loosen the clamp on the air boot enough to slide the clamp back out of the way. Pull carb straight up through the frame (may seem more like a jigsaw puzzle at this point). Also if using my method, tip carb in such a direction to let the gas flow freely through the vent hose, down your pant leg and all over the garage floor. Not a good time for a smoke break.
5. Remove throttle cable bracket from new carb.
6. Lube air boot and inlet to engine with lite coat of wd-40 to aid in assembly.
7. Remove little wire bracket that holds the idle adjuster as it will be re-mounted under the rear brake fluid resevoir bolt. Let it hang for now but keep an eye on it as well as the vent lines since they will end up somewhere in the way, just because they can. Malcom's Law, Murphy invented it but I perfected it.
8. Slide carb inlet into air boot then push it back to get the carb outlet into motor. It may be a good idea to reattach the throttle cable to the carb at this point to check for clearance during throttle movement. On mine there is a tab on the carb throttle mechanism that hit the frame. Test for clearance by pulling the cable up by the handlebars. If it hits the frame, turn the top of the carb to the right side of bike to create clearance.
9. Install idle adjuster hanger under rear brake fluid reservoir bolt.
10. Install throttle cable bracket, throttle cable and throttle assembly. I think 1/4 inch of free play is called out for as an adjustment but I prefer less play. I keep it just loose enough to not effect engine idle RPM.
11. Drop gas tank into place. You will need to put a little twist in the gas line since the fuel inlet is in a different location on the new carb (put new clamps on line first). Re-attach petcock to bracket.
12. Secure wire harness to original locations with new wire ties.
13. Turn on fuel and check for leaks.
14. Reattach ground wire to battery.
15. Twist throttle three times and try to start. If it doesn't start right away pull the choke out and try again.
16.After it starts, let it warm up for a short time and push in choke. Will probably need to adjust idle at this point.
17. Let the bike warm up good then adjust air fuel mixture.
18. Reinstall seat and plastics.
#12
RE: well........i told you so.
ORIGINAL: Scott V
I must be the only one here that likes the way my stock carb works when rejetted?
It might not have the snap like a pumper, but it sure does run super clean. I happen
to be totally happy with the way my 250 runs.
I must be the only one here that likes the way my stock carb works when rejetted?
It might not have the snap like a pumper, but it sure does run super clean. I happen
to be totally happy with the way my 250 runs.
your not the only one, I haven't touched my engine or carb and I'm very happy with the way it runs. It's smooth and predictable and does anything I want. I'm not very good at wheelies anyway so I dont care if it does or not however I can get the front over logs and stuff when I want to (in first)
Cheers
#13
RE: well........i told you so.
johnny all i can say isWOW!!! that was exactly what i was hoping for. step by step instuctions.you answered EVERY question i had about the instillation. the last thing i'm curios about is adjusting the air fuel mixture.. don't mean to be a bother but i've never had to adjust the air fuel mixture on my bikes. i have done quite a few jet kits on both dirt and srteet bike but i just follow the jet kit settings and leave it at that. so setting it is new to me.
thanks so much for what you've already done. i bet i'm not the only one who benefits from that post!!!
thanks so much for what you've already done. i bet i'm not the only one who benefits from that post!!!
#15
RE: well........i told you so.
I think the official stance on this is to turn the fuel screw in until the rpm's start dropping off taking note of position. Then start backing the screw out until the rpm's start dropping off again, counting the number of turns. Go half way between the two points and this should be the sweet spot.
#16
RE: well........i told you so.
Good write up Johnny. I would like to emphasize #8, because it really makes the install go a lot easier. I used a dry silicone, but WD-40 works just as well. Hooking up the air box side first makes a big differences as well, as that hose is very rigid and tough to work with once the carb is in-place.
#17
RE: well........i told you so.
I really can't thank you enough. You have no idea how much you have helped me.. i love working on my bikes and i usually just blunder my way thru it to learn. It's very stressfull cause i'm always afraid that i'll screw somwthing up without knowing how and why i screwed it up. for probably the first time in a long time i feel as though i got this thing under control even before i start. just having that feeling makes this so much easier. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
#18
RE: well........i told you so.
No problem, glad it helped.
I've owned several bikes before but never worked on them myself until now. I've found all the info I needed here or just asked and got answers right away. Good luck with the install and if you get stuck somewhere, pop in and ask.
I've owned several bikes before but never worked on them myself until now. I've found all the info I needed here or just asked and got answers right away. Good luck with the install and if you get stuck somewhere, pop in and ask.
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firstninjabike
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05-21-2007 07:42 PM