No worries, I think I have searched for a stator or rectifier but didn't find anything similar. Anyway, I see you did it already, it's the black/white cable If I get it right?!

 

Added small black wire to more directly ground the wire in that connector (instead of running through much of the electrical system).

 

Yes i get that, I'm a bit unsure of which cable to use, there are three yellows and then I can't recall, all three are black? Should I just pick one of those blacks or it needs to be a specific one?!

 

So tried it today, connected this black/white wire with a bolt on the motor, it went 14.09 from 13v(!!) on idle, but when i was reving it was going a bit less than 14, around 13.80. Tried to connect it directly to the battery with same results. A whole 1 volt but still out of manual range of 14.2-15.2 plus the decline of voltage instead of incline. Im waiting for a new rectifier anyway to try it, i hope ill get better results.

 

Did you read the thread with all of the data in it? i'm trying to help...but you have to do some of the work! lol You're just adding a direct ground...so you add it to the ground on that connector. If you review that thread, you will see it clearly.

 

I think that you're done. I'll be interested to see if you find any difference with another R/R. 14V is excellent. It doesn't take much. You're trying to not run everything off of the battery and keep the battery charged. Too much, and you can damage the system. Nice work!

 

Hmm, but should it work like that? Inclining a bit when Reving? Instead of going the other way?!

 

Different bikes and their electronics vary quite a bit, and modifications to the charging system and adding electronics change them still further. And the cooling fan being on can also change the reading quite a bit.
For reference, my bikes have the following voltages when off, at idle, and at RPM. The ranges are due to the fan on or off.

14.2, 14.4, 14.1
12.8, 12.5-14.1, 13.3-14.1
12.9, 12.7-14.7, 12.7-14.8
12.9, 12.8, 13.2-14.4

As you can see, there is a wide variance.

 

 

I know, but do you want the book to be working or your bike?

My cars all have a similar type spec on the primary resistance of the coils. I've owned four of them and they all measure as open on every meter...yet the cars work fine and that same. There's no problem to diagnose unless you have a lot of free time. I think that you're reading way too much into this.