Very tight intake valves
#21
10-03-2012, 01:02 AM
OK, I just had mine done...wish I did them with someone that knew what they were doing...but I thought if something were really wrong, better for the shop to see it first...shop said the intake was on the tight side but well within spec...the exhaust was at the max...tried to get more details but the guy seems to be a drunk and couldn't remember...arg.
So how long do I wait for the next check? When it's hard to start?
And what happens once the minimum clearance is reached? Do you then replace the whole top end? Just curious, not really worried.
My only problems with this bike have been clogged jets...and repeatedly...time for an in-line fuel filter(already did the t-vent mod, which helped the off-road water uptake issues I had).
So how long do I wait for the next check? When it's hard to start?
And what happens once the minimum clearance is reached? Do you then replace the whole top end? Just curious, not really worried.
My only problems with this bike have been clogged jets...and repeatedly...time for an in-line fuel filter(already did the t-vent mod, which helped the off-road water uptake issues I had).
#22
10-03-2012, 01:36 AM
Thanks TNC.
Can't imagine getting to that point, but as much as I love this bike, I guess I will at some point...hopefully not until I'm one with all the mechanical workings of the bike (my non-running KLX650 might be a good pre-schooling in that area
).
Can't imagine getting to that point, but as much as I love this bike, I guess I will at some point...hopefully not until I'm one with all the mechanical workings of the bike (my non-running KLX650 might be a good pre-schooling in that area
).
#23
10-03-2012, 03:21 AM
Here are some intakes I just pulled out of a 2003 Suzuki Carry minitruck w/ 30k on it. Same thing, could not get a .002 gauge in them a year ago. Reshimmed to the thinnest shim they made (got .010 clearance) and a year later truck wouldn't start again. It got new valves this time. I think they got a batch of soft valves.
#24
10-03-2012, 01:43 PM
On bucket/shim and some other valve train designs the valves moving up into the head due to normal wear is where the decreasing clearance is faster than the wear of the other valve train parts. On many rocker arm, pushrod, and other systems, the valvetrain components can wear faster thereby increasing clearance faster than the valves wearing into the valve seats. There are all kinds of variables here, but in the case of our KLX and many other engines, the valves wearing into the head decrease clearance, and the adjustment is to increase clearance with smaller shims. When the valve clearance becomes too small, the stroke of the engine doesn't produce enough vaccum to draw enough fuel and the compression stroke can be diminished enough to lower combustion threshold. At least in my pea brain that's the overall gist of it.
thanks
Chris
#26
10-03-2012, 06:05 PM
nice...that's how it felt after my valve adjustment...the klx fired up the moment i touched the starter button...
#28
10-04-2012, 03:06 PM
As far as the need to buy a complete shim kit...kind of expensive...many dealers will just let you swap shims in their existing stock. No shop I know of throws away shims, so the shims are reused over and over, which is just fine due to their location under the bucket. It's a customer service that most good shops will provide.
#30
10-04-2012, 03:34 PM
think it's a waste to buy an entire set of shims...i found other alternatives...i found shops that have exchange programs, but only if you rent a work station for $25 that provides every tools you'll need to work on a motorcycle...local dealer wanted $3 to $5 per shim depending on the shim i needed....