That's cheap! I've been putting off the 6oo mile service the dealer said HAS to be done by them in order to keep the warranty. Believe that? They want $350.00 THREEHUNDRED AND FIFTY DOLLARS. PLUS PARTS!!! How can they say I'll void my warranty if i don't let them do it and do it myself? I have 750 miles on it now, and just changed the oil today. First change was @ 50 miles. Anyone else been told this load of balogney? I am more than able to do it myself, I just don't want to screw up my 4 year warranty. Thoughts?

 

In-lbsTorque Wrench, check
Metric Feeler Gauges, will order
Silicone Sealant, have plenty on hand
Service Manual, I want to avoid dishing out $100 plus for one. Just want the torque specs mainly.

I just had a thought. I believe it was EMS that had a problem with his bike making somewhat similar to mine. About the slack in the timin chain. So I want to ear the bike better. And sure enough, the timing chain side (exhuast pipe side) seems a lot louder than the left side. So thats just something else I'll need to check into. But I'll still do the valve clearance adjustment.

 

I don't know where you got $100 for the manual but I got both of mine on e-bay for $20 each plus shipping. I asked my dealer when I bought the 2 yr extended warranty and they said I could do all the service myself and not lose the warranty. Also the Good Times warranty is valid at any dealership, not just the one you bought it from, check the warranty card that you should have gotten with it. I keep mine in my wallet. The back states to return to the dealer you bought it from, however, it does say that if you are unable to return to the original dealer, service can be obtained at any authorized Kawi dealership.

 

Mine KLX can't be warrantied anymore. Its an over-sea's bike, plus I'm the third owner. First oil change was done at 1,800 miles, according to the previous owner. The bike just turned over 3,100 miles Monday.

Well the reason why you got the factory service repair manual for $20, was because you got it from Evil-Bay. The Dealers want more for the book, plus an addition of the supplement.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawas...QQcmdZViewItem

 

http://motors.search.ebay.com/?from=...tle=klx+manual


Not quite as cheap as I got mine for, but check out the store listings.

 

Will that manual work with a 2006 KLX250s?

I've been searching the fourms, backwards, looking through the post problems that EMS has had. And 33 pages later, I find the two posts that might help more on the problem.

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_154893/tm.htm

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_149820/tm.htm

My KLX does sound familar to the sound clip. Except mine does it in the middle RPM range, and somewhat at idle. I'll be pulling the timing chain tensior tomorrow before I go to work and see how far its out.

 

That is the so called base manual. The supplement is tiny compared to it. The supplement deals with the few differences that there are between them. Such as, the old ones didn't have pinch bolts on the front axle, as such the new front axle has a different torque value, as well as a value for the pinch bolts. I've really had to use the supplement manual very little.......considering there isn't a heckuva lot in it. Most everything you will ever do on the bike is covered in the manual for the 90's KLX.

 

Just found out that the timing chain is good. The adjuster was only 1/3 out and was racheting correctly. So its gotta be the valves.

Today I'll be ordering the valve shims andclearance gauges. On Saturday, I'll be ordering from the dealer new brake pads, valve oil seals, left hand gaurd, and chain gaurd. And to take a look at their service repair manual, if they let me.

Oh happy, happy, joy. Nothing beats having a repair project.

 

The thing with the adjuster is that the ratchet isn't all that fine. The chain can get kinda noisy before the ratchet takes another click to tension it again. How much is the stock handguard? Might want to think about aluminum handguards if its like $15-$20 for just the one plastic one. The Tusk aluminum guards with plastic spoiler are around $50, and $70 with an extended spoiler.

What happened to your chain guard? Do you need it for inspection purposes or were you refering to the bottom guard? If you don't need the top guard for inspection I'd say leave it off, it doesn't do anything anyway.