Most of the 4cyl bikes I have done don't have holes in the sprockets for tie wraps that will be nice on this bike but it must be easier than the Honda CBX I did back in 1979 or so 24 shims in that baby[] cams are so long they were put in in 4 cams ......

 

I almost hate to ask but NoBrakes could you revive the pics and include a pic of the feeler gauges you have? I'm trying to prep for the N. East ride and have 2600 miles on the bike, I did my own servicing and have never done any valve work. I don't really want to take it back to the dealership either, as that would mean putting the snorkel back in, stock jets and stock exhaust just so i don't have to answer any questions.

 

I updated the picture links, and added a few more of the tensioner that I didn't have at the time. The tensioner shots I took during one of my big bore upgrades. Sorry I don't have any photos of the feeler gages. They are run of the mill gages though, I got mine at Sears, just make sure they go down low enough. Using the gages is easy - just slip them in underneath the valve lobe between it and the valve lifter bucket. You should be able to slip it in easily, not so easy that there is zero resistance, but it should not be hard, either.

I doubt the dealer will give you any trouble about the jetting or air box, though. They are barely aware of even what bike they are working on, let alone any mods. But that alone is plenty good enough reason to stay away and do it yourself!

It's not too bad, especially just checking them is real easy. Adjusting, if necessary, is only a little more involved. Good luck!

 

Thanks! I'll be downloading the pics and writeup this time. As far as the dealershis is concerned I know the jets and airbox are really not noticeable but my 300 exhaust with the big downturn would be noticeable considering its a helluva lot louder than the stock can, and the head mechanic/service manager took my bike for its shakedown run so he'd know something is different lol. And if I just put the stock can on I'm not sure it would run too well with the fatter 125 main. Anyway thanks again NoBrakes!! See you in NJ! You going to charge for rides on the 331? Or should you pay us as our credit cards will probably start smoking after?

 

bryantjt, i put my stock exhaust on to go back to the dealer, it still ran ok with the stock exhaust on i have a 125 main also... just a thaught, im sure its a little rich but just for the short time at the dealer would be ok.

 

No problem, and definitely see you in NJ. I might be riding an orange bike by then, though. Shhhh, did I say that out loud? If so, I hope you guys still let me tag along and I won't relegated to the black sheep squadron. I gotta see how things work out here in the next week or so to see if that is going to be a go or not.

 

Does anyone have a picture of one of the shims. I have shim stock in .001" increments and thinking that I could make my own if they were not some wierd shape. Thanks

 

The shims are just a round button that is 7.48 mm in diameter, of varying thicknesses.

 

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Just to revive the topic a little more.

I've decided to do the valve adjustment and probably replace the valve seals too since one of them are leaking when the engine is cold. So with all the info on this topic. I guess I'll need a 7.48 mm valve shims. I will most likely order the Hot Cams kit since it includes a lot of shims of different thickness. Alsovalve clearence slims to measure the gap clearence. If I can get away from it. I would like to avoid buying the Service Manual. I'll try the Kawasaki dealer and see if they'll allow me to take notes from it.

Is there anythingelse that I might need?

 

Torque wrench and metric feeler gauges if you can find them. If not the double stamped US/metric ones work too. You'll want some silicone sealant for the round tabs on the valve cover gasket. The service manual is relatively cheap and it has lots of other useful info in it, I'd spring for that as well. For the valve adjustment its 2 charts of clearances, you'd be taking notes for a while to get all that info. The supplement manual does not have this info in it, only the big original KLX250 manual has it, to the best of my knowledge anyway.