Nice write up Brian. Our 'before' reading couldn't be much closer. LOL I still wonder why the sprocket side valves were tighter?

 

Excellent writeup. I've done this job 3 times on other bikes and NEVER thought of that tie wrap idea. Though Suzuki marks their cams well. Anyways, I'm printin' this out, throwing all the torque specs on it, and adding it as 'supplement number 2' .......

 

Uncanny. Actually, our 'before's are exactly the same - the 0.078 is a typo (writo?) on my part. My gage is 0.076 not 0.078. I guess the only difference in our bikes was the shim size the factory put in. Mine were all 3.05 mm while yours were 2.95 all around.

I wonder how the factory build determines shim size? Do you really think they build the bike up with a standard shim size, then measure the clearances, and then take it apart again to put in the correct size for each valve? Somehow I doubt it - that would take too long and be too labor intensive. I'm guessing they maybe spot check one engine off the line, check its clearences, then set the next N engines that come off to that engine's shim size with the reasoning that all the engines built near each other in time will have similar specs. After N engines pass by, pull another one off and check it, and so on.

I'm just guessing here, I have no direct knowledge or experience on how the factories assemble these bikes. I just figure they are making a ton of these and whatever method has to be fast. Checking each one individually would not be fast.

This is yet another reason to do a valve clearence check early - the factory installed shims might not be optimal. After the first one valve check / adjustment, then you can probably go the 7500 listed in the manual until the next one.

 

Thanks! This is way more than I've ever done inside an engine. But I figure I saved myself at least $150, and having the satisfaction that it is done right is worth even more. [sm=smiley20.gif] Of course, my wife questioned whether I should be doing this or not when she came out into the garage and my KLX was propped up on life support undergoing brain surgery. When I mentioned how much money I was saving she retorted that it might actually cost a lot more if I couldn't get it back together. So I said I know what I'm doing, [sm=trust_me.gif], to which she just shook her head, gave me that look, and said "Famous last words ..." But I got the last laugh - she started up on the first crank. The bike runs good too

 

Very nice job thier nobrakes, I guess i better start looking for that shim kit so i can do the same.

 

Interesting on the factory shims. I wonder if they premeasure valve lengths or something like that and pick a shim that will work with all. There is no doubt they have some quick way of doing it, might be a special tool that mounts to the cam bearing cap holes and measures down to the top of the valve. With the expectation that the cam tolerances are a whole lot tighter, they could make a fair guess from there, maybe just picking a size that works for all.

As an example, last year I put 4.88 ring and pinions gears in my Jeep's axles. Took 12 iterations to get the front to pass the gear pattern and backlash tests. 7 in the rear. I doubt I could ever get it under 3 or 4 tries without luck. Anyways, at the factory, they have a tool that sits into the tubes at the bearing point and measures the pinion depth. At that point, they can look at measurement numbers stamped on each pinion and ring, make a measurement of the carrier and get the pinion and carrier shims right the first time every time. The tool cost more than the gears so I didn't buy it, but over the years I may regret that as I do buddies gears or maybe even the wifes 5.0.

It would be interesting to have a factory worker on the forum, we learn alot on the Jeep forums from those folks

 

I'm guessing they'd have to do something like that - good suggestion, that makes sense. Actually, I think Tony corrected in a later post that one of his exhaust valves had a different sized shim from the rest, so that tends to support your idea even more. It would definitely be interesting to see the assembly line. I'd love to get a tour.

 

I think you'd have to go to Thailand for that tour [:'(]

 

Excellent Stuff and photos. Thanks heaps. I haven't done mine yet but having done a ZX6, I would highly recommend using a strong magnet to lift the bucket as it lifts the shim with it as well ensuring that it doesn't fall into the motor.

Wayne

 

I second that! The last thing I think any of us want to experience is "wiggle..wiggle..CLUNK!