(Part 1 ... https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=31030)

(Part 2 ... https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=31031 )

Now it's time to get naked. Get the bike naked, the bike ... you @#%$& perv's.



As with all retro-fits challenges are inevitable, fortunately all had simple solutions.



Challenge 1:
Where to mount those 3 boxes ... control, ballast, ignitor?

Note: Control box only present if you want a high/low beams switched via stock handlebar controls setup. Single beam systems don't have this.

Control Box:
Leads coming from control box long enough allow mounting it anywhere on a motorcycle. I'll leave this for later.

Ballast & Ignitor:

CAUTION: Do NOT cut/spindle/mutilate wires from ignitor/ballast to bulb! One carries highvoltage and has special insulation.

If you have any excess length you'll need a place stow it or try using the other lead ... depends on where you end up mounting the control box. On my 09 KLX the shorter lead was perfect given where I mounted the control box.

Solution! ... mostly

This looked like a perfectly good place to mount ballast/ignitor, they are well sealed, waterproof connectors.



Upon re-assembly for test fitting I noticed 2 potential problems (but of course) .

A) Not enough room in the mass of wiring behind/above/around the headlight to stow the connectors

B) Ignitor/ballast and instrument console collided, preventing headlight cover from being re-attached without a LOT of warp.

Solution!

A) Carefully rearrange and zip tie cabling into a more manageable mess. Created more open space behind the light.



TIP - Do not cinch zip ties tight, a little loose to allow cables to move relative to each other. When handlebars are turned you don't want any binding going on.

B) Move metal bracket holding headlight, instrument cluster, turn signals forward about 1/2" using spacers - 4 spacers, longer bolts req.

C) Relocate headlight cover mounting position. Top - 2 "extensions". Bottom - 1 spacer 1/2" long. (see pic)



Challenge 2:
HID bulb is longer where it sits on reflector towards back of the bike. Rubber "cover boot" won't reach the collar molded into the stock reflector.

Sorry folks didn't get any pictures of this step. Pretty simple, hopefully text below will be adequate.

Solution! Fab a simple sheet metal "extension tube" and bond to collar molded into reflector.

Materials Needed:

- galvanized HVAC sheet metal (stuff you get at hardware store) or any sheet metal you have around that can easily be formed into a "tube" of the required diameter.

- High-temp silicone sealer (vs epoxies, JB Weld etc.) as it can be removed if necessary without much trouble or damage to reflector housing.

- 2 zip ties long enough to go around outside of collar

... but first

Mandatory project blood shedding.



You think I'd learned by now. "I'll be really careful this time. Gloves are for wussies." (or people with functioning brains).

"no stitching - just bitching".

Fab Simple Sheet Metal Extension:

1. Extension will be approx. 0.5" high, calculate circumference of collar on reflector to get length then add about 3/8" for overlap on ends.

2. "Pre-bend" piece around a spray paint can or whatever, makes installing MUCH easier. Avoid creasing!

3. Zip ties ready, closed up with a little extra space in the opening to slip over your extension.

4. Put a *thin* layer of high-temp RTV around OUTSIDE of collar on reflector, on the two ends or your sheet metal where they'll overlap.

5. Place your extension onto reflector collar (OUTSIDE surface), slide first zip tie down to bottom and tighten securely

6. Put other zip tie around top, slowly tighten until diameter at top matches diameter at bottom. Do NOT close down too small! Little larger is OK, but smaller NOT good = rubber boot won't grip securely = start over.

7. Set aside to cure overnight, then remove zip ties.

Challenge 3:
How to get stock headlight connector out from inside of rubber boot, then get HID bulb connectors back through?

Solution! "Nurse ... #2 Exacto Knife, stat"

No other choice ... make single cut in the rubber boot opening just large enough to pass various connectors in/out. This is no big deal, really.

That opening was never anything close to a waterproof seal, doesn't need to be, and you don't need to cut the darn thing in half.

If you're an@l obsessive compulsive type (you know who you are) ... clean the "incision" with alcohol then silicone seal it up, sleep overnight next to it, monitor every 30 minutes for vitals.


Heading to the finish folks ... Part 4 - Mount control box, a bonus farkle, it all goes back together just fine, and if that wasn't enough - even works as planned! .

 

This is a super cool mod!!!!

 

Great job on the project, and very nice write up. Glad you found KF
Dan