Update on new KLX250
#1
09-26-2018, 06:52 PM
Update on new KLX250
So after all the mods barker exhaust K&n filter no lid ejk controller blocked pair valve.
The bike really screams now 1st gear wheelies and power shift at 10000 to get second up.
I have no decel pop at all thanks to the controller. The bike has stock gearing today I hit 6th gear at 10300 rpm speedo said 105mph! Kinda scary on knobbies. I would recommend these mods to all new efi bikes! Totally a different bike now.
The bike really screams now 1st gear wheelies and power shift at 10000 to get second up.
I have no decel pop at all thanks to the controller. The bike has stock gearing today I hit 6th gear at 10300 rpm speedo said 105mph! Kinda scary on knobbies. I would recommend these mods to all new efi bikes! Totally a different bike now.
#2
09-26-2018, 08:44 PM
Exactly what you should be getting !
Since you are getting the "2nd gear shift" wheelies on a 10k powershift, your top end fueling MUST be correct - or very close to it..
Not many of us have experienced the 2nd gear shift wheelie - Such performance is only possible with a correctly fueled and modded stockbore, and a good rider.. Congrats to you..
Now... That Barker exhaust (with stock cam timings, lidless airbox, and proper fueling) could quite possibly create 25+ HP KLX's.. It only takes 23.75 hp to pull the 2nd gear shift wheelies..
So, given the above, how did you "setup" your EJK ?
We will need all the tiny details about how your EJK is set up... For all of us that have (or will have) EFI KLX's...
Also it's very important to know - Normally, without the MCM, your powerband should be weak (weaker than when stock) below 5500-6000 rpm and "Raped Ape" above that, all the way to 10.5 k..
Is this the case ?
Since you are getting the "2nd gear shift" wheelies on a 10k powershift, your top end fueling MUST be correct - or very close to it..
Not many of us have experienced the 2nd gear shift wheelie - Such performance is only possible with a correctly fueled and modded stockbore, and a good rider.. Congrats to you..
Now... That Barker exhaust (with stock cam timings, lidless airbox, and proper fueling) could quite possibly create 25+ HP KLX's.. It only takes 23.75 hp to pull the 2nd gear shift wheelies..
So, given the above, how did you "setup" your EJK ?
We will need all the tiny details about how your EJK is set up... For all of us that have (or will have) EFI KLX's...
Also it's very important to know - Normally, without the MCM, your powerband should be weak (weaker than when stock) below 5500-6000 rpm and "Raped Ape" above that, all the way to 10.5 k..
Is this the case ?
#3
09-26-2018, 09:49 PM
Thanks man! The ejk is set to there factory settings for aftermarket exhaust and no snorkel. So I have not done anything to it. I could go look if anyone need exact numbers of lights flashing for all modes. I was going to wait to put some miles on before I take it to Dyno for optimal tune. It runs stronger and revs quick All around from 2000 to 10500 but it really pulls at 7300 to 10500 hard! No breaking up or bogging down anywhere I’m really happy with the bike. Btw when I say second gear wheelies it comes off the ground like 15 inches and I weigh 200 lb All I hear is loud barker exhaust love it
Last edited by Kris250; 09-26-2018 at 10:08 PM.
#4
09-26-2018, 10:29 PM
Ok, got it,, The Barker system has been an unknown forever.. It is quite possible that it does not completely destroy low end power - that is header size and length dependent - and the Barker looks quite different than all the others..
Running stock calibrations for no snorkel obviously gets you close - but the lidless airbox is a very significant addition of airflow at higher RPM's over a snorkel-less airbox,,
I suggest you hit your mode button enough to get to the RED zone, note the existing setting (lights), and then bump it up by 1 full light ("+" button pushed twice) ...
You may or may not notice the difference in the WOT 7300 - 10,500 range - as "all hell is breaking loose" during those moments.
If you can't, you can be sure that the top end is being fueled in a "safer" way than before..
If you do notice a positive difference, then you could certainly continue bumping up the red zone fueling 1/2 light at a time until you stop noticing improvements...
In the unlikely event that you notice a loss of performance, reduce the the Red Zone by 1/2 light ( one "-" button push) - this will put the Red Zone at 1/2 light richer than "as delivered"..
Log all Zone settings before "messing" with them - so you can always go back to the "as delivered" fueling...
Running stock calibrations for no snorkel obviously gets you close - but the lidless airbox is a very significant addition of airflow at higher RPM's over a snorkel-less airbox,,
I suggest you hit your mode button enough to get to the RED zone, note the existing setting (lights), and then bump it up by 1 full light ("+" button pushed twice) ...
You may or may not notice the difference in the WOT 7300 - 10,500 range - as "all hell is breaking loose" during those moments.
If you can't, you can be sure that the top end is being fueled in a "safer" way than before..
If you do notice a positive difference, then you could certainly continue bumping up the red zone fueling 1/2 light at a time until you stop noticing improvements...
In the unlikely event that you notice a loss of performance, reduce the the Red Zone by 1/2 light ( one "-" button push) - this will put the Red Zone at 1/2 light richer than "as delivered"..
Log all Zone settings before "messing" with them - so you can always go back to the "as delivered" fueling...
Last edited by Klxster; 09-26-2018 at 10:39 PM.
#6
09-26-2018, 10:54 PM
Will do red zone is currently at 2.
On the map here for the EJk it says SNORKEL LID REMOVED so I’m a little confused is it the snorkel that is removed only or they talking about the actual lid with the snorkel attached to it
Last edited by Kris250; 09-27-2018 at 12:56 AM.
#8
09-27-2018, 02:29 AM
I'd run the "snorkel lid removed" settings. Notice that red zone fueling is 2 whereas the other two appropriate options have red zone at 1.. It is a shame that they cryptically refer to a lidless airbox as "snorkel lid removed" but it is most assuredly what they mean...
It would seem EJK has done their homework on fueling a lidless stage 1 KLX !
Probably outta leave it alone until ( or if ) you have a dyno tune session..
It would seem EJK has done their homework on fueling a lidless stage 1 KLX !
Probably outta leave it alone until ( or if ) you have a dyno tune session..
#9
09-27-2018, 11:06 PM
I’m going to try a put a least 1000 miles on it before I get it dyno. I found a local guy at 804 motor sports with a dynjet he seemed very knowledgeable. Can’t wait to post it what ever it may be!
pretty excitied call Moto Pro and order .48 springs for my forks stock ones seem to dive hard for me.
pretty excitied call Moto Pro and order .48 springs for my forks stock ones seem to dive hard for me.
Last edited by Kris250; 09-27-2018 at 11:09 PM.
#10
09-28-2018, 12:03 AM
Again, there is much you need to know before handing your bike over to a dyno shop..
I can give you knowledge that'll insure you get what you've paid for - and for you to get your run/data files off of the dyno computer instead of some stupid chart printout..
I can give you knowledge that'll insure you get what you've paid for - and for you to get your run/data files off of the dyno computer instead of some stupid chart printout..