Im going to check my voltage to see if i have a short after experiencing a sudden loss of power.

What volts/ amps should i see?

Ignition off -------------------? volts
Ignition on (light on) ----------? volts
Pushing starter----------------? volts
Once started and warmed up --? volts

 

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=32247

 

I assume you are measuring directly from the battery terminals:

Ignition off -------------------~ >=12.6 volts depending on age of battery

Ignition on (light on) ---------- I would expect >12 volts

Light is 60/55W - So expect about a 4.5 amp draw.

Pushing starter----------------Something slightly <12 volts

The starter relay is connected to the main 20A fuse, so i would expect much less than 20A going to the starter (maybe half). There is also an interposing relay kawi calls the starter circuit relay so you may want to inspect that also if you fear a short.

Once started and warmed up --13-14 (manual says 13.2-14.2) volts

Expect about 5 amp draw between the headlight and CDI.

Remember the "started and warmed up" voltage is about 4k RPM, if you measure at idle, expect at or slightly above battery terminal voltage.


Cheers,

Anthony

 

From my experience of testing automotiv batteries. The voltages should be within this range for that size of battery.

Ignition off -------------------12.4-12.7 volts
Ignition on (light on) ----------12.2-12.6 volts; if it drops below 12v, you may want to consider a new battery.
Pushing starter----------------no less than 10 volts; normally, any battery that I tested that dropped below 10v is automatically bad. Thou on the KLX, it could go down to 9v, but the lower it is, the worst condition the battery is.
Once started and warmed up --12.6-14 volts; once the engine is started, you are now reading stator output voltage. On some motorcycles (like a 85' NightHawk), the stator doesn't put out enough energy till it reachs a certain RPM. For the KLX, that shouldn't be a problem and should be at least 12.6v at idle and higher till 14v when the rpms go up.

To give better baseline on actually numbers, I will give my KLX a voltage run down test today.

 

Okay, I pulled baseline numbers from my battery. Just to let you know, it is the orginal battery installed in December 2005 and it has been sitting for 2 weeks without a charge since the last time I rode the KLX.

Ignition off -------------------12.34 volts
Ignition on (light on) ----------11.47-11.52 volts
Pushing starter----------------9.0-9.6 volts
Once started and warmed up --Idle 1300 rpm 13.5 volts, choked @ 3500 rpm 13.6 volts

Consider my battery to be on the low end of grade or at the end of its life.

 

Thank you!

 

This is what i got did the voltage test yesterday
OFF---12.55 to 12.62 volts
LIGHT on--12.07--12.12 volts
Pushing starter---9.65 first time, 10.30 second, 10.40 thrid
Bike running---13.75-13.82 volts

Seems fine right? And i burn out fuses when i start the bike. HUH! (Not every time, about once a month)

 

May seem ok, I wonder what the voltages were when the fuse blew...i guess we will never know unless you install a permanent voltmeter and watch it every start

Sounds like you have an intermittent short to ground somewhere that might connect only a certain way the handlebars are rotated or if the wind is blowing northwest on a monday after 3pm (ghost grounds are tough to troubleshoot, hard grounds usually find themselves really fast).

On the plus side, your battery is better off than mine, I got stranded on my ride today about 70 miles from home after I shut her off for a snack break. Luckily I found a large enough hill to popstart it in 3rd and roll on home Time for a new battery for me I suppose, I've rocked this one for over 2 years so that's all I ask from these little powerhouses (or lack thereof).

Good luck with your fuse issues 09, until you find the cause, keep a pack of them in your toolpouch!

Cheers,
Anthony

 

Ok. Thank you so much for your help and advice. This is my first bike, so I dont know much about it.