A relay has only one function here.
It reduces the current load on the "switch", if there is one.
A relay allows a relatively low current/power circuit to control higher current/power circuit.
If you are not intending the socket to be switched, forget the relay.
Fuse it straight to the battery.
If you want the socket to be switched, and the current draw will be higher than the ignition switch and /or existing wiring can handle, use a relay.
Coil side of the relay to the ignition switch circuit and the contacts straight to the battery.

Am I making sense here?

 

I realize this is off topic for this thread, but I'm surprised they teach to only use the key instead of the kill switch. I always use the kill switch. Why? Because in an emergency situation where you NEED to shut down the bike immediately, reaching for the kill switch should be natural and almost reflexive. If you shut your bike down all the time with the kill switch, the repetition will teach the motion over and over making it natural and automatic and you'll be able to do it without having to even think about it and those precious seconds may make all the difference if you need to kill the engine in an emergency.

So if the throttle sticks open or something and you need to quickly shut the bike down, and too many things are happening around you for you to have time to think, killing the engine is an automatic reflex, just a thumb movement away. On the other hand, it's not really possible to take your hand off the bar to turn the key off in a situation like that.

Sorry for the thread jack.

 

Actually Brian if you read my post again, they do indeed teach students to use the red kill switch, And in an emergency I would use that red switch, but for every day shut downs I use the key. That's just me, but like I said everyone I know that routinely uses the red switch has ended up leaving the switch on and ended up with a dead battery. To each their own I guess. But the first time I ended up with a dead battery using the red switch when I first got the bike, was the last time.

 

Ah, ok, my mistake - parsing error on my part.

 

I wired my ACC plug directly to the battery through an inline fuse. So far, I have not had any issues with leaving accessories plugged-in or left on in over 2-1/2 years, but to each is own.

One thing though. 'Jumping' the bike through an accessory plug was mentioned earlier in this thread. I wouldn't recommend that unless you proceed very carefully...as in letting the batt charge for a good while before trying to crank it over. Otherwise, you can easily blow the fuse on your acc outlet by cranking it while the batt is still real low. Whenever possible, go directly between the batteries with something much more 'beefy.'

 

Jumping the bikes is fine, I tried it a couple of times, and as long as you just connect the jumper and wait like 3 minutes, the other bike will crank right up. Its all good.

 

Yeah, just wanted to cover the territory where someone might get in a hurry and try to crank aggressively with a real low batt before allowing it to charge for a bit. It wouldn't be the end of the world if you blew a fuse, just an inconvenience or mild PITA.

Whenever availble, I'll stick with real jumper cables; preferably rated at a min of 30A continuous, but hey you gotta use what's available. I think I mentioned 'proceed carefully' in the original post, which appears to be what you did.