Alright, good luck and keep us updated if you start. I might be doing the same thing soon. And stay safe and healthy in NY.
Maybe you can add a signature to your profile so we know what you ride and have done to your bike.

 

Don't remove the ACR. They were doing that at the start, but the recommendation now is to just remove the spring that disengages it. And the spring is easy accessible.

Cheech

 

I'm surprised it ran as well as it did with the lid back on..

What you need to do, while you gear up for the MCM, is to start laying down duct tape. Starting at the front of the airbox opening (the front is the side of the opening that is closest to the engine) begin to cover the opening with the duct tape. I'd start by closing off the first two inches of the airbox opening, replace both side covers and the seat, and test. You WILL get a reduction in noise as the airbox opening is covered.

I would advise you to "become happy" before you destroy your performance and your fueling scheme (by closing off too much of the airbox opening)..

Nothing about super gluing the washers on the top of the clip is permanent. Super glue is easily reversible...

At least one other member had created a "baffle" that he said softened the growl without affecting performance. It looked, to me, to be a great solution.. search in here and you'll probably be able to find his pic of his "baffle".. Based on his design, it is a no-brainer that closing off a small part of the front of the airbox will help with the growling..

However, It would be best for you to decide that your induction system growling is actually the beautiful music of 24+ horsepower..

 

If you can do the stuff to do the valve seals on a small block you can do the MCM work. I was intimidated by the shim under bucket cams out valve adjustment, but it really isn't any more mechanically difficult than a set of screw adjust rockers. A bit more time consuming, but no harder. The hardest part is checking clearance, measuring shim used, then calculating the shim needed. Triple check math, maybe have someone else check you. Shoot for the middle upper clearance range. Notice I haven't said anything about the MCM.

That's because mechanically it is pretty easy. Look at the instruction link I have to a document in my signature or look at the sticky in the KLX250S forum here. It is a condensed version of the original work Marcelino did. Only the mechanical information is there. Nothing about the what and why. Don't need that in the way when doing the work. Includes pictures, if I remember right I got them from his posts before they disappeared.

 

so let me see if i understand this. set engine at tdc (mark on left side of crank under stator cover) . Remove valve / cam cover, remove bolt and spring for chain tensioner. take bolts out of "ex" holes on exhaust cam and..... this is where i get confused. do you rotate just the sprocket to line it up to the "in" holes? do you lift the chain off the sprocket when you do this? or do you rotate the cam to re-align to the new hole? then move the sprocket and cam (as they are bolted together) 2 teeth clockwise? same goes for intake cam but just reversed.. Sorry, i am more of a visual person, and i have not taken it apart yet to see what it looks like, as it will probably make much more sense..

 

this is the only video I can find.

 

I broke the bolts loose, then took the cams out since I was doing shimming too. Then I bolted the sprockets on in the different position, reinstalled the cams with the alignment marks up as shown in the picture, with the cam chain tight on the front run. When it looked like the picture I knew it was right. As I note, it took me a few tries just because I just screwed up putting the cam sprocket in the right place. It was clearly obvious when I screwed up, didn't look like the picture. So easy, to do other than when you can't seem to get the cam in the right place.

 

While those guys didn't speak very good English, the visuals were good.. Too bad they didn't know to just pull off the KACR spring instead of hammering it out and repositioning it..

I am afraid too many peeps have attempted MCM from videos they've watched.. Not one video out there is correct and/or complete. You can't be successful (at this point) by watching any video. Perhaps, at some point, someone WILL produce a vid that's proper, but not so far..

 

So do the Cams even need to come out? Can the ACR spring be removed With leaving the Cam in? I saw that video also Ekim250 too bad it wasn’t in English, but it did help. The mod does seem pretty simple. Sure it is crystal clear once I’m looking at the sprockets on the cams. I’m gonna try to start taking it apart tomorrow after work, want to pick up some locktite for the Sprocket bolts.

 

This the acr spring?