It looks like the stock pull cable is about 21 mm too long using the TM36-68 carb with Acerbis tank. This is a brand new cable of exact length compared to the old one with one or two strands frayed. The throttle- and carb-end adjustments when fully extended, and carb-end button in the further position will work, but there is no room for any more adjustment. If the cable were 21 mm shorter, the carb-side button would fit in the nearer pull hole with nice adjuster settings on both ends. Haven't seen any posts on this. I can post pics later.

Anyone else seen or heard of this?

What am I doing wrong?

If nothing, can a bike or cable shop cut the cable and install a new button?

Here is TM36 and Acerbis Tank Pt I: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...is-tank-38832/
(Thanks TNC and others for plowing the way.)

 

Scott, if I'm reading you correctly, you have too much cable free play from an OEM pull cable? If so, that doesn't make any sense, does it. I've had my 36 on for awhile so it's not fresh in my mind, but was there a way to mis-time the Mikuni throttle wheel in some way that has changed your cable position? I'm thinking there isn't. I'm guessing you pulled your throttle wheel off the carb to remove the return cable area like I did because of the Acerbis tank. Anyway, mine and many others used the stock, OEM cable and did not encounter anything like what you're seeing. The pull rate of the OEM cable is well within the 36's parameters. Is there any chance you have something misplaced in the throttle housing...like something missing that would basically add length to the cable?

Anyway, yes there are shops who can redo the throttle linkage button on a cable. On a throttle cable it's a little easier than on say a clutch cable with its stiffer and more rapid pull. Still, it takes some good technique and a proper tool to redo that button for a long lasting cable. It's not something all motorcycle shops do as much these days, but they are out there.

 

Yes Thad, the OEM cable is too long. I looked over my photos of before and after and I don't think the pull wheel is mis-timed (if that's even possible). The twist throttle is all there (no missing pieces) and the cable routing is on top (stock position).

Unmolested pull wheel (left-hand side of the carb mounted on bike). The pull cable rides on the bottom with buttons on the right (two button holes available). The return cable rides on top into on of the two upper button holes.



This is the WOT position. On the very left, lower portion see the bracket which will hold the pull cable.



Because of interference with Acerbis tank, the upper portion of the pull wheel will be removed, eliminating the return cable connections. In this pic I was marking portions for removal.



Last night, throttle cable in place. The cable isn't buttoned in this pic as I was disassembling. The button was in the further button hole. Note that the pull wheel is timed as above.

 

Scott, I reexamined my cable setup just a minute ago. My OEM pull cable is even in the first button slot of the throttle wheel...closest to the end of the cable...and it still has adjustment take-up room. Something's not right somewhere on your setup. I would not chalk this up to variances in the OEM throttle cable here. There just wouldn't be that much difference. I'm not clear on your cable...is it the OEM cable that was on your CV carb? I saw your mention of some fraying on a cable...was that your original cable? Is the current cable you're working with a factory cable for the KLX, aftermarket, or something else? If something else, what's the source? Also, you can hook up your CV carb just by holding out beside the bike to see if it still truly fits and operates the OEM carb properly.

Edit: OK, I've reread your original post. Are you saying you've measured your current cable, and it's 21mm longer than the OEM cable...longer at the actual cable and not the housing?

 

My new cable is OEM. It's the exact same length of my old cable, which I assume is original. The old one has one or two strands that are frayed which was my own fault as I nicked it during install a year or so ago.

I discovered the long-cable issue with the old one and then ordered the new OEM cable thinking there may have been a little stretch and because of the fraying. If I put the button in the far hole on the carb wheel, I only want to remove 11 mm.

I will futz around with it again tonight and try to find what I'm doing wrong.

Thanks!

 

Your pics appear as though you have some room to play with at the carb adjustment nuts for the cable. I'm going to assume that you have also adjusted the nut at the throttle housing out somewhat too? Just checked mine and I am using the 2nd throttle pull hole. Mine seemed long at first too, but adjusting both throttle and carb ends seemed to work. Could be different between the 06 and 09 though.

 

The carb-end adjuster in the pic is set "where I'd want it." That's the setting I was using to determine the need to cut 11 to 21 mm from the cable. I can see those pics don't demonstrate the problem; they were mostly taken to see if anyone could tell me "hey, why do you have that in upside down?" To get a good fit, that adjuster and the one on the throttle body has to be backed out all the way to get the cable tight with button in 2nd carb wheel pull hole. I don't want both adjusters backed out all the way, particularly so on the hand throttle.

Thanks for the input!

 

Just curious, is the distance from the carb cable bracket to the carb wheel holes different on the Tm36 vs. the oem carb? I went to take a measurement, but my bracket is missing from the oem.

 

Scott, do you still have the CV carb? Have you hooked up the pull cable just to see how it pulls the throttle? I know you're a decent mechanic, so I doubt you're just bumbling around with this issue.

While a few have complained about the OEM cable and housing being too short because of higher bars and/or risers, I haven't seen any issues with the OEM cable having too much free play. It's weird.

 

My 250 D Tracker has adjusters part way down the throttle cables as well as at each end. I don't know about the KLX250S though

Anyway check your mid-cable adjusters if you have them and see if you can open them up to take up the slack

When I installed the TM36 on my bike with the stock tank there wasn't any excess cable that's for sure. I had to rotate the throttle housing upside down after also rotating the nearby switch assembly a bit (once i ground off its plastic locating nub) so I could get the front brake lever where I wanted it