I finished up getting the throttle cable setup dialed in today along with grinding the throttle cable linkage on the carb. I have my OEM gas tank and checked clearance on the carb just for grins. There's tons of room with this carb and the stock tank. On the Acerbis, I had to really work that throttle wheel over to get good clearance, but it was very doable with a dremel, grinder, and doing the finish work with small files. I disassembled the throttle wheel from the carb body, and it made the work a whole lot easier. It's just a roll pin holding the wheel to the linkage shaft. Now I have full clearance on the carb and my big tank. I am pleased. Here are several pics of some of the work.

Since I'm just using the original single pull cable, I blocked the other hole with an appropriately sized bolt. It makes a nice clean install while still using stock parts. I ran the throttle cable and handlebar housing under the handlebar instead of over like it was in OEM setup. It's tucked up out of the way and gives some extra length. I used the OEM pull cable instead of the return cable with the elbow like I was considering, because the straight pull cable turned out working just fine with no crazy bends or getting mashed. Plus, the throttle housing is 8mm threads for the pull cable and 6mm for the return cable at the throttle grip housing.

The jets should be coming sometime around the first part of next week. They say the bike will fire up and run semi-OK as the carb is delivered, but I'd rather start with a exact or at least a lot closer setup.

 

Very nice!! I can't wait to see ow you make it sing!!

 

+1
I'm curious to see what you think of it. I don't think I need one but..............................

 

+2
Mine is only a 250cc/34 pumper combo but I really loooove what the pumper has done to the bike over the fuzzy fluffy stock Carb.

 

Keeeerap! I hate stuff like this. Doing a mod that's been around for awhile and just thinking it ain't that big 'a deal. Then after 3 years you do it and find that indeed it's a pretty darned big deal. While this carb isn't turning my KLX with a 300 jug into a Saturn 5 rocket, the response and punch this carb gives when you crack the throttle is worth every bit of the money and very little time to do it.

My jets came in today, and I already had chased down any fitment issues. If I didn't have an Acerbis tank, it would have been a straight bolt-on. Even the OEM throttle cable works fine unless you have some really tall handlebar extenders. Running the throttle cable under the handlebar gave more than enough cable length. The grinding I did on the return cable part of the throttle wheel was actually quite easy, so even fitment to an Acerbis tank isn't a big hurdle.

I set my jetting up almost identically to Mustang and Mooredan's final tune. I only changed the main from a 130 to 127.5. They're running a 340 BB with more compression, and I felt from my experience with the CVK34 I could probably try starting with one step leaner main. On the other jetting, I left the 1.0 pilot air jet in...went with the 17.5 pilot jet...used a P-4 needle jet...went with the 9EBY01-50 needle...needle in middle position (3rd notch from top)...and 2 turns out on the pilot fuel/air screw.

It's about 94 degrees here today at about 1700' altitude. The bike fired up immediately with the choke on. It ran smooth on the choke, but when I turned the choke off, it still idled smoothly. I've got to say that I'm impressed how this carb idles compared to my CVK. It idles smoother at a lower rpm than I could get the CV carb to do. Immediately upon taking off on the test ride, it was apparent that this carb gives the bike somewhat amazing response. I live in the country, and my driveway is dirt. It felt like I had a slipping clutch when heading because the rear wheel would spin so easily.

I head out on pavement and some dirt trying to get a feel for the performance and any hiccups that might need to be addressed by some more fine tuning. I don't have any real singletrack near the house, but on dirt roads or pavement, I couldn't get a backfire, a hesitation, a dead spot, or any misbehavior from the engine. It would cruise smoothly, it would respond crisply, and there was no surging or flatness that I could detect anywhere. Frankly I felt kind of guilty, because obviously someone has spent a good deal of time giving us what are at the very least super close tuning numbers, if not dead-on correct. I've done projects like this in the past, and they have always involved many hours of putzing before perfection or even near perfection are achieved. Thank you mustang, Mooredan, and many others who's posts I've picked clean for info.

I'm thinking that when I hit some real off road singletrack with lots of slower stop-and-go, herky-jerky terrain where you're on and off the throttle, that surely I'll find some little part of the powerband that might benefit from some fine tuning...but right now...it seems pretty much perfect. I'm a little surprised that my tuning of the pumper circuit feels as good as it is. I took the suggestions of 1/8 throttle to 3/4 throttle as the timing points for the pump. I used the linkage shaft as a guide and marked 1/4 increments on it to get started and marked timed the pump at about 1/8th opening and used the 3/4 mark as ending the pump. It seemed to match when and how the pump was actually beginning and ending its pump cycle, but I had no idea if this would even translate to the exact operation of the pump, but if it ain't exact it must be close. I did my pump timing with an external fuel tank and the carb in a bench vise, closely watching the operation. I'm thinking this is where the true off road trail test may suggest a pump timing tweak, but who knows.

After riding with durielk for several days in Colorado last month, it seemed pretty evident that his bike would continually squirt ahead when we were close to each other and we'd both accelerate. I figured his TM34 BB pumper carb helped but I was chalking most of it up to his 351 kit. I'm more of a believer now that either pumper carb makes a real difference on this bike...certainly way more than I first believed. With the TM36 costing less than the TM34 and having more tuning options, I see why mustang even changed from his 34 to a 36. It slips right into position much easier than the CV carb and is easy to tune. My only regret right now is that I didn't do this earlier.

 

Who carries the TM36 carbs and what do they cost? I may have to rexamine getting one after I get the 351.

Rob

 

Rob, I got mine through Tucker/Rocky from my old shop I used to work at. This is a wholesaler to shops and not an online company. However, many shops all over the country use them, and they do have an excellent online catalog that the public can view in total. It's a huge company, and their catalog is at least worth taking a look at. It shows suggested retail prices. Shops have the ability to price differently. I think retail was $339. My shop still gives me my discount, thankfully. Here's a link to Tucker's catalogs. The carb is in the off road catalog.

Tucker Rocky Distributing Consumers

I just got back from another ride. Again, no singletrack, but I hit fields, bar ditches, and other obstacles trying to load the engine, lug it, and other manuevers trying to get it to bog, hiccup, or do something negative. Nothing happened. Again, I'm impressed with the work of those who've apparently done a stellar job at nailing down some great tuning numbers for this carb...mustang, mooredan, and others...thank you.

 

Great! Good to hear it's a slam dunk for you so far. However, you're really making me regret neglecting to get mine installed yet.

 

Lutz, I was one of those being skeptical about this carb and even suggesting that it might be too big for the KLX...perhaps even too big for a 351. I based that on my several carb swaps in years past on dirt bikes usually installing a Mikuni VM style carb, and a couple by installing a flat side EI carb. I'm not sure how Mikuni gets this carb to be so usable and user friendly over a wide variety of bikes. It's truly a neat design. After seeing how the carb works and is tuned, I can see how those with stock cylinders but having a pipe and airbox mods are having good results with this carb, which sounded utterly impossible to me at first.

If you have one of these carbs sitting on the shelf and haven't installed it, shame on you. I'm also saying shame on me for being a doubting Thomas and dragging my feet.

But seriously, with the wealth of jetting time and experience that a handful of fellows have put in on this carb, it's just about plug-and-play.

 

I've been a bad, bad boy. I've had one for probably almost a year, collecting dust in the garage. (I suppose I'm doubly bad for also having full front and rear Stroker suspension sitting in boxes next to the carb.)

Mine is used, came off of a warrior atv. As such, the correct idle screw is missing, instead it's got a screw in the bracket behind the bell crank. And of course the jets aren't even close, according to the well beaten tuning path.

Really, the main reason I've not installed it is too many irons in the fire - garage time to hop up the bike is next to nihl. For the most part, the KLX just gets ridden and i barely have time to perform basic maintenance. Once in a blue moon I find time to do some tweaking to the bike.

I think you've got me convinced. The pumper will be the next hop up to install.