Tm36-68 on Stock bore - Pilot Jet tuning
#11
pwjm, Dan Moore and Mustang who did a lot of the pioneering on this carb swap eventually ditched the delivered needle jet, needle, and pilot jet. Have you seen their final setup? It's basically like mine with the exception of the main jet and idle air jet. Both of them had 341 kits, I believe. I live at 1700' which is fairly close to yours. I think you might have better luck with a P4 needle jet, 9EBY01-50 needle, a 17.5 pilot, and have a .9 idle air jet on hand. My main is a 127.5. I'm assuming you have done a careful check and setting of the pump and insuring the directional spray?
#12
Hey PBnJ, from THC's advice, I looked up Mustangs' "stuFf".. He is/was at 2400 ft with lid off and full exhaust... He listed his findings in the thread below..
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...92/#post214537
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...92/#post214537
#13
Thanks guys! I did have a peek at his thread a few days ago.
I just wanted to isolate the Pilot jetting for now but I agree that the needle needs to go much leaner. I can feel it when I ride.
My local bike shop can't find the needle Mustang suggested in their parts catalog, but they can order in the needle jets and main jets. I was going to go with a P-6 and the 9EBY01-50 needle to start. I'll have my old AFR meter hooked up in a few weeks.
Once I start digging into the actual jetting - not the idle circuit - I'll detail it all in a new post.
I just wanted to isolate the Pilot jetting for now but I agree that the needle needs to go much leaner. I can feel it when I ride.
My local bike shop can't find the needle Mustang suggested in their parts catalog, but they can order in the needle jets and main jets. I was going to go with a P-6 and the 9EBY01-50 needle to start. I'll have my old AFR meter hooked up in a few weeks.
Once I start digging into the actual jetting - not the idle circuit - I'll detail it all in a new post.
#14
I think you'll find this carb to still perform pretty well if it's a little rich, but fuel economy will suffer and any trip to decent altitude will have produce some annoyance. It'll be good to see you get things sorted out. I think you'll enjoy this carb.
#15
Calling all Mikuni guru's...
regarding pilot jet set ups:
On a warm engine the idle will begin to dip when I turn the screw inwards from about 1.5 turns in.
Peak idle appears to be past 3 turns out and it's not until the screw is almost un-threaded that the idle begins to dip again.
Would this indicate that I need to go up in PJ size, or down?
regarding pilot jet set ups:
On a warm engine the idle will begin to dip when I turn the screw inwards from about 1.5 turns in.
Peak idle appears to be past 3 turns out and it's not until the screw is almost un-threaded that the idle begins to dip again.
Would this indicate that I need to go up in PJ size, or down?
On the other hand if everything else is satisfactory, you might want to leave it as is at +3. Say - if you just need a little choke to start it cold now, that's about right. Richening the pj might have you needing no choke-which usually means it's a tad rich. You could lean it with the screw but the pj affects things further up the carb opening as well
As one member said before, you could put a little silicone on the screw if you decide to use it at a little more than 3 turns out.
Then a/f meter will let you get it dialed in quickly
Last edited by Richard Avatar; 08-11-2015 at 10:03 AM.
#16
I put a blob of silicone seal on the screw on a 24 Mikuni on my trials bike when it was around 3 turns, just playin' it safe. Then I went to a leaner pilot when I got one and had more normal adjustment range.
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