TM36-68 351cc jetting question

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  #11  
Old 08-10-2011, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by David R
I just put 5/16" (8mm) SAE flat washers in between the lid and box. It only breaks the seal. I even used the stock screws, they are barely long enough. It did seem to help and I hear no more noise than before.

The first time I put the carb on, I took it for a ride with out even hooking up the hose from the air box to the carb. The bike went like a raped ape. Second gear wheelies just by turning the throttle. This is when I realized that air box makes a huge difference. My son says just put on little K&N on it (with NO air box) and forget it. I told him the shock is in the way.

That carb is finicky, but once its dialed in, its a blast.

You could have flooded the bike with the choke, its A LOT of fuel for that bike to fire up. No drilling of the starter jet needed. If my choke would stay at 1/2 when I pull it out, that would be enough to fire up the bike and run it cold.

Now I just pull the choke out, fire it up and let the bike run for less than a minute. I then push it back in . If I don't it starts to "lope" or just plain run too rich until it stalls. I got good at holding the throttle at a fast idle for the first stop sign with no choke. Bike does not stall cold if I keep a little throttle.

Daqvid

I had that carb off MANY times.

David
Thanks David, I am going to have a look doing something to the air box... The 351 is quite a bit louder than stock.

I certainly know how finicky the carb can be... I must have had it on and off for what seemed like a hundred times to get it right on my stock bore... hopefully I can get everything dialled in fairly quickly.
 
  #12  
Old 08-10-2011, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ducatiss750
Neil I bought your dyno jets off you on eBay I noticed the 128 was used , I'm having a 300 kit installed at the moment what main should I run I'm in grafton new should I use the 128 or the 132. I am also considering the same carb that you current have is it worth the upgrade and what needle jets combo would you recommend for 300cc in aust sea level.
Hi, did you get that email I sent you offering you my CVK carb?

The kit you got was the 2206 kit which is actually designed for a klx300 so whatever the instructions say as per your bikes modifications will be fine. I belive it says to start with a 128 and see how it goes.

I was pretty sure that I was using the 132 jet when I had the CVK carb installed. Could be wrong though. Everything on my bike was opened up (no lid, no backfire screen, FMF P-bomb & FMF Q2 exhaust).

I don’t know if I can recommend getting a pumper to anyone. It really comes down to your personal riding style and preferences…. for me even though it was a pain the *** to dail it in I don’t think I could go back to the CVK, I like the snappy responce I get with the pump + it feels more powerful to (this is probably more psychological that factual)

As for jetting... I think that comes down to your bike and your mods. let us know what youve got and we could probably give a bassline.
 

Last edited by neilapples; 08-10-2011 at 11:52 AM.
  #13  
Old 08-10-2011, 12:02 PM
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Neil I didn't get you're email but I have changed email addresses and have not update it in my profile sorry.My setup is what u had prior to the 351 install I am looking for better response and was looking for a base line to start I seriously considering the pumper what was your jets/needle setup for the 250 with pumper as it should be similar on the 300
I am current running west oz set up stock carb 138 main and 38 pilot n1tc main will try the dyno kit but as mentioned am leaning towards the pumper or maybe bill blue tm 34 as it is already jetted for the US bikes anyway

Thanks

Thanks
 

Last edited by ducatiss750; 08-10-2011 at 12:12 PM.
  #14  
Old 08-10-2011, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ducatiss750
Neil I didn't get you're email but I have changed email addresses and have not update it in my profile sorry.My setup is what u had prior to the 351 install I am looking for better response and was looking for a base line to start I seriously considering the pumper what was your jets/needle setup for the 250 with pumper as it should be similar on the 300
I am current running west oz set up stock carb 138 main and 38 pilot n1tc main will try the dyno kit but as mentioned am leaning towards the pumper or maybe bill blue tm 34 as it is already jetted for the US bikes anyway

Thanks

Thanks
I think i mentioned to you that the you won’t see much difference between the larger stock jets that you all ready have compared to the dynojet kit.

I can’t comment on bill's TM33 pumper but from my observations the TM36 fits in better than the TM33 its also cheaper as you can pick them up on eBay for $269.99 + postage.... here is a link Mikuni TM36-68 Flat Slide Carburetor 36mm Pump Carb - eBay (item 170616515481 end time Aug-13-11 12:22:36 PDT)

My settings on the 250cc bore are still fairly close to what I am running on the 351cc bore

Settings for stock bore were

17.5 pilot jet about 1.5 turns out on the fuel screw
P-6 needle jet
9EBY01-50 needle clip in the middle position (this is the richest needle)
130 main jet
Pump splashes off the needle and starts at 1/8 throttle and ends at 3/4 throttle

if you go for a TM36-68 Make sure you get the correct TM36-68. There is another TM36 that doesn’t look like this one and I don’t think that its a pumper.

This is a TM36-68 and is the one on the link...

Name:  TM36.jpg
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This is NOT the correct TM36

Name:  NotTM36.jpg
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  #15  
Old 08-11-2011, 04:06 AM
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OK now I am interested!!
 
  #16  
Old 08-11-2011, 11:21 AM
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Just an update...

Rode the bike to work today to put some kilometres on the new cylinder…

Jetting in the mid range feels fine now and pulls nicely. I may (and this is a big may) try dropping the needle one more notch just to see what happens.

I am not pushing it too hard while I am breaking it in so I haven’t done any WOT runs as yet. I have opened it up to WOT briefly a couple of times and it still pulls ok and feels about right but ill really need to do some proper WOT runs first.

I ordered a 132.5 & 135 main jets anyway + I have ordered a 20 pilot because winding it out took about 4.5 turns to get the rich stutter and the manual says any more than 3 turns out go up one on the pilot. I suspect that 17.5 is fine but want to try the 20.

Like I said earlier I was a little disappointed at first but as I put the distance on it its feeling better and better and better. It pulls well in 6th gear now!!!! Haven’t tried any wheelies yet but with the little brief blips to about ¼ to ½ throttle the front feels like it will go up if I gave it a smidge more.

I thought I had an issue some where because I was getting the buzz/rattle at about 5k -6k rpm… I was stressing a little but after giving everything a loot over found that it was the bash plate rattling there is quite a bit more vibration on the new jug.
 
  #17  
Old 08-11-2011, 12:17 PM
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It took a while for my piston/cylinder to break in. First it sounded terrible so I put premium gas in it. Then after about 70 miles, I thought it was broke in, so I changed the oil. It kept getting better until about 250 miles. I just love it now.

David
 
  #18  
Old 08-11-2011, 04:07 PM
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Mine sounded pretty rattly too but is now sounding a lot tighter. I have about 100 miles on it.
I think I will give this carb a tryout.
 
  #19  
Old 08-11-2011, 08:06 PM
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Last tank of fuel, 103 miles, 1.65 gallons gas. Do the math,
62.4242 Mpg. usually its more like 57 mpg.

I think the difference is last tank I could only get 89 octane instead of the usual 93. Probably stick with the 89. It pings with 87 octane. (R+m/2 method)

This bike is my commuter, I ride to work 20 miles and who knows how many home since I usually take the long way.
 
  #20  
Old 08-12-2011, 12:09 AM
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Thanks guys,

I only have about 80klms (about 50 miles) on the new cylinder so its still a while off breaking in.

Im going to drop my bash plate and put some rubber grommets in it to see if i can stop it from rattling around. I know for sure know that it’s the bash plate because now when it rattles/buzzes i put my foot on the plate and the buzz goes away.

I noticed something else rattling away to day so ill have to see where that’s coming from now.

None of these noises are coming from the engine just from the frame because of the extra vibration.
 


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