Tire Balance - How Important?
#1
Tire Balance - How Important?
It's about time for me to switch out my old tires with some new IRC GP-1's. How important is it that I get them balanced? One shop does all this (mount and balance) for $100. Another shop charges $40 withOUT balance. Is the balance critical? I was thinking of changing my tires out myself but I can't loosen the rear bolt! Tough as heck! Is that normal? I'd like to do this myself next time. If the bolts are torqued to spec I should be able to remove them myself right? I'm thinking of this in a future sense...not for this first tire change. I bought the bike used with 9000miles. Thanks in advance!
#2
Honestly...you really need to learn to pull your wheels off yourself...and no smart a$$ remark intended from me at all. On a big roadbike with tubeless tires, it's understandable as to the need for a professional in many cases for most people, but on this bike, you at least need to learn to remove and install the wheels. At least then you can find a shop who'll do the tire change a lot cheaper...usually. That $100 deal for a KLX is ridiculous IMO. Sometimes the front may need balancing if you're using one rim lock. The rear is usually fine. Did anyone install a rim lock on yours?
#3
It's about time for me to switch out my old tires with some new IRC GP-1's. How important is it that I get them balanced? One shop does all this (mount and balance) for $100. Another shop charges $40 withOUT balance. Is the balance critical? I was thinking of changing my tires out myself but I can't loosen the rear bolt! Tough as heck! Is that normal? I'd like to do this myself next time. If the bolts are torqued to spec I should be able to remove them myself right? I'm thinking of this in a future sense...not for this first tire change. I bought the bike used with 9000miles. Thanks in advance!
With the correct socket and a long handled ratchet/breaker bar you shouldn't have any problem.
#4
I agree 100% with TNC that you need to learn to take the wheels off and put them back on yourself - it's really not that difficult.
As for the need for balancing, what sort of speeds do you ride at and on what terrain? If you ride slowly on bumpy roads then I don't see much point in balancing. If you ride anything over 30 miles/hr (50km/h) then I would say it's worth considering balancing your wheels. It made a HUGE difference to my bike which I use for commuting to work every day on. The wheels actually needed quite a bit of weights to counterbalance the rim locks (both front and rear) and now that I've done that it is a LOT smoother to ride. On my Husky that I only ever ride offroad and never really at high speeds I haven't bothered with balancing the wheels.
IMO, save your $100 and invest in a $70 wheel balancing and trueing stand from Rocky Mountain ATV (Tusk Motorcycle Wheel Balancing and Truing Stand | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC) and wheel weights (http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/im...he_wei_blk.jpg) so you can rebalance your wheels whenever you want. It's really easy: How to Balance a Motorcycle Wheel - YouTube
As for the need for balancing, what sort of speeds do you ride at and on what terrain? If you ride slowly on bumpy roads then I don't see much point in balancing. If you ride anything over 30 miles/hr (50km/h) then I would say it's worth considering balancing your wheels. It made a HUGE difference to my bike which I use for commuting to work every day on. The wheels actually needed quite a bit of weights to counterbalance the rim locks (both front and rear) and now that I've done that it is a LOT smoother to ride. On my Husky that I only ever ride offroad and never really at high speeds I haven't bothered with balancing the wheels.
IMO, save your $100 and invest in a $70 wheel balancing and trueing stand from Rocky Mountain ATV (Tusk Motorcycle Wheel Balancing and Truing Stand | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC) and wheel weights (http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/im...he_wei_blk.jpg) so you can rebalance your wheels whenever you want. It's really easy: How to Balance a Motorcycle Wheel - YouTube
#5
My local shop charges $10 to change a tire if the wheel is off, $20 if it's still on the bike. I've watched them, done in 10 minutes with just irons for something that took me 1+ hour (practice and the right tools). Balancing not included (they are a dirt bike shop, and balancing isn't generally important there).
I balanced the rim lock weight by just putting stick-on lead weights on the rims of equal weight. It's not exact, but is MUCH better than without the counter-weights.
I balanced the rim lock weight by just putting stick-on lead weights on the rims of equal weight. It's not exact, but is MUCH better than without the counter-weights.
#6
My local shop charges $10 to change a tire if the wheel is off, $20 if it's still on the bike. I've watched them, done in 10 minutes with just irons for something that took me 1+ hour (practice and the right tools). Balancing not included (they are a dirt bike shop, and balancing isn't generally important there).
I balanced the rim lock weight by just putting stick-on lead weights on the rims of equal weight. It's not exact, but is MUCH better than without the counter-weights.
I balanced the rim lock weight by just putting stick-on lead weights on the rims of equal weight. It's not exact, but is MUCH better than without the counter-weights.
I recently put rim locks on and on my first jaunt to the local gas station noticed a pretty good hop to the front wheel. One of the guys on here has the weights listed for the motion pro rim locks so I made up some brass weights that attach to the spoke with a set screw. The weights are not exact but close enough that i don't notice any out of balance vibes while running down the road at 60mph.
Definitely take the wheels off yourself. Righty tighty , lefty loosey
Dan
#7
sub, on the overly tight axle nut, if you have a Harbor Freight tool store anywhere close, they have a huge 1/2" drive breaker bar that is inexpensive and decently made. I have one, and that sucker will break anything loose. HF also has decent quality sockets for the size you need for the axle and pivot bolts.
#9
I do. Have changed a few to be comfortable enough with them in emergency situations. Last tire, a new Kenda TMII on front, was only an $8 bill.
#10
I started out in the same position last year. Now I love changing tyres and tubes and even fitted a rim lock myself, and added spokes weights to balance. For $100 you could buy levers, breaker bar and sockets (22,27,19 and 17mm), pump and valve tool and then you have to keep with change.
The first time i removed the rear nut and sprockets impossible. I got them with a 1/2" breaker bar and sockets as TNC suggested, so I started carrying them on the trail thinking thats what was needed. Thing is once I had done it a few times and used anti-seize they now come off with a 5' adjustable wrench. Safe with anti-seize as one has a pin and the other a bent washer tab.
The first time i removed the rear nut and sprockets impossible. I got them with a 1/2" breaker bar and sockets as TNC suggested, so I started carrying them on the trail thinking thats what was needed. Thing is once I had done it a few times and used anti-seize they now come off with a 5' adjustable wrench. Safe with anti-seize as one has a pin and the other a bent washer tab.