Time for new sprockets?(Pics Included)

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  #11  
Old 06-22-2011, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jhoffy22
I don't know anything about chain length, quality or sprocket quality. Any advice on this matter would be appreciated.
Chains have a wear limit. It's always best to replace chain and sprockets together, but somewhere in the service manual it will give you a wear limit measurement. There should be a certain distance between 20 chain pitches (or so) and if it exceeds that distance, OR if you have several kinked links, the chain is junk.
 
  #12  
Old 06-22-2011, 06:13 PM
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Lube is important. IF it were me, I would keep running that chain. The chain and sprockets need to be replaced as a set, so running the ones you have longer will not hurt. Just don't wait till the chain jumps or the sprockets are pointed.

David
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 06:27 PM
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buy both a 13 and a 14 counter sprocket as you can go between the two easily and go from a lower off road setup to something more street friendly and usually just readjust your chain when done.
 
  #14  
Old 06-22-2011, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by linkin5
buy both a 13 and a 14 counter sprocket as you can go between the two easily and go from a lower off road setup to something more street friendly and usually just readjust your chain when done.
There is a 42 tooth sprocket on the back and a 13 on the front. Does that mean that my bike is geared more for the road or off road? I bought the bike used and that's how it was. I need a good read about sprockets so I can understand. I see guys running like 14/49. I am getting the 351 kit so I think I want to see how fast the bike can be out of hole and how quick and low end torque but also have the ability to gear it for the road by just flipping a sprocket. Is is the lower the number the more geared for the road it is? and the higher the number of teeth the more geared for off road?
 
  #15  
Old 06-22-2011, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jhoffy22
There is a 42 tooth sprocket on the back and a 13 on the front. Does that mean that my bike is geared more for the road or off road? I bought the bike used and that's how it was. I need a good read about sprockets so I can understand. I see guys running like 14/49. I am getting the 351 kit so I think I want to see how fast the bike can be out of hole and how quick and low end torque but also have the ability to gear it for the road by just flipping a sprocket. Is is the lower the number the more geared for the road it is? and the higher the number of teeth the more geared for off road?
14/49...yup, that's me. Crap for the road. I can cruise 25 mph in 6th gear, and whip through the gears in no time. 70 mph put's me over 8,000 rpm. But for me, it's tough to go any higher gears on the rocky hill climbs we tend to ride...although I'm getting better...I used to need the 13/49 but practice has improved my (limited) technique. When I go 351, it will have more low-end torque and I'll probably go 15/49 or lower the rear to 45 or 47 and figure out which front (13/14/15) works best.

13/42 more for off road...or very quick accelerations on road.

Have you ever ridden a 10 or 18 speed bicycle? If not, you should borrow a friend's if they'll let you. Try starting off in 10th or 18th gear (big one up front, small one in the rear). This will help you figure out gears. In the meantime dude, quit stressing about getting the gearing perfect before putting in the 351. The prior recommendations you've received on it are spot on.

also, check out gearingcommander.com
Our bike is in it. You can see what different gear setups do, and there's some great advice and information on the site. Work through it. But don't think that just because you put on a 15/38 gears you'll be able to get up to 125 mph!

And in the meantime, since you're on a spending spree with bottomless pockets, buy the highest-end aluminum sprockets and a gold chain . I'll keep my steel sprockets and cheaper o-ring chain that were probably half or less the cost.

Cheers
 
  #16  
Old 06-23-2011, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by David R
Lube is important. IF it were me, I would keep running that chain. The chain and sprockets need to be replaced as a set, so running the ones you have longer will not hurt. Just don't wait till the chain jumps or the sprockets are pointed.

David
I agree. I don't see much hooking in the pic - so I say lube it and ride it some more. But, also can't tell from the pic how much the chain is stretched. Best to measure between pins as has been mentioned, and see what that says. If it's borderline, you could likely get more miles out of everything. Just don't put a new one thing in there, or it'll get worn out in no time.
 
  #17  
Old 06-23-2011, 04:07 AM
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR
14/49...yup, that's me. Crap for the road. I can cruise 25 mph in 6th gear, and whip through the gears in no time. 70 mph put's me over 8,000 rpm. But for me, it's tough to go any higher gears on the rocky hill climbs we tend to ride...although I'm getting better...I used to need the 13/49 but practice has improved my (limited) technique. When I go 351, it will have more low-end torque and I'll probably go 15/49 or lower the rear to 45 or 47 and figure out which front (13/14/15) works best.

13/42 more for off road...or very quick accelerations on road.

Have you ever ridden a 10 or 18 speed bicycle? If not, you should borrow a friend's if they'll let you. Try starting off in 10th or 18th gear (big one up front, small one in the rear). This will help you figure out gears. In the meantime dude, quit stressing about getting the gearing perfect before putting in the 351. The prior recommendations you've received on it are spot on.

also, check out gearingcommander.com
Our bike is in it. You can see what different gear setups do, and there's some great advice and information on the site. Work through it. But don't think that just because you put on a 15/38 gears you'll be able to get up to 125 mph!

And in the meantime, since you're on a spending spree with bottomless pockets, buy the highest-end aluminum sprockets and a gold chain . I'll keep my steel sprockets and cheaper o-ring chain that were probably half or less the cost.

Cheers
I can't help it It's a curse and it eats away at me when I know that there is perfection to be done. I don't care too much about the chain or sprocket, so long as they are in good condition that doesn't negate from the performance of my bike.
 
  #18  
Old 06-24-2011, 12:11 AM
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Here's a little section from a thread I posted on another forum last year:

Alright now for some interesting stuff. Well--maybe for some.

Can you guess which sprocket is bad???



Hopefully this might help someone new to this sport. The broken tooth does sorta give it away tho. If you're sprocket even starts to look like that-- time for a new one.

Being a bit bored this afternoon, I decided to dissect the old chain (21000 kms). I'm a curious type and I like to investigate worn out equipment.

After removing the roller from one of the links you can easily tell that the inner bushing is well worn on the outside.


You can't tell from the pic but the bushing also has wear on the inside from the pin. Hers a cross sectional shot of the same bushing cut in two.


Also of note-- the chain pins only had small sign of wear.

Don't know if this interests anyone---but thought I'd share.
 
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