My battery after charging it (for 2 hours @ 2-amps) reads 12.8-volts without a load. I mean it's still installed in the bike, but with key off this is what it reads..and after trying unsuccessfully to start the bike it quickly drops to 12-volts and even below. Does this mean it's time for a new battery? What do some of your batteries read with no load? Shouldn't I expect to see it at or above 13-volts?[:-]

 

Hey MJ I just copied and pasted this, you already saw this in the other thread. I hope it helps.

Actually I just went out and put a digital meter on the battery, and keep in mind mine is all charged up. With the bike not running it was 12.6 and when I start it, it goes up to 14.1. So having a battery that reads 12.5 is pretty close to normal, but you can have a dead battery even if it reads 12.5, its the amps behind the voltage that matters.

 

to really do a good checkon a battery you have to do it under a load........... what do the volts drop to when you try and start it?

9-11 vdc and still cranks- not bad but it's on its way out.
under 9 vdc I would defiately replace it, it probly will notcrank for verylongplus the lower the volts drop
the more the amps try to make up the difference.

everything has a watt usage= Volts X AMPs
as the volts go down amps go up..... wattage (power) almost always stays the same- things get burned up fast as AMPs go high.

 

On automotive type batteries. Voltage should at least be around 12.4-12.6 Volts open. And should not drop below 10 volts under load. Anything under under 10 volts should be consider to be replaced.

One way to check. Take a voltmeter, measure the volts from the battery with everything off. Next turn the ignition on but don't start the engine. It should still be around 12 volts and no less than 11 volts. Next crank the engine over, voltage readings should not go below 10 volts, 7.2 volts @ worst. With engine running, volt readings should be in the 12.8 - 14 volt range.

 

I think the stock KLX battery is a very good unit. Mine is 4 years old now and unless I leave the ignition turned on, will readily start the bike. It doesnt actually take long to flatten it with the lights. Its funny but I havn't owned a bike with a key for a long time and remembering to turn it off is an issue. Or have I just become accustomed to machines that beep when they are left on?
If your battery wont hold charge then sometimes changing the fluid helps but it also means the battery is close to death and may let you down when you dont need it.
One thing in favor of battery life here is that the air temp never goes lower than 60F. Freezing does kill batteries.

Lee

On a secondary note, has anyone fitted an on/off switch to the lighting circuit or is the resistance a neccesary part of the charging cycle? Has anyone actually completely removed the lights?

 

Actually I have often thought about throwing a switch on the headlight so i could reduce power consumption during my rides (most of my rides are daytime anyway)..and I also have a lexan plate that I haven't used yet, but it velcros to the headlight to prevent rocks from breaking the lens..and having the headlight turned off would make sure it doesn't melt.

Someone else told me last nite at work that trying to start the bike with the clutch in reduces the amount of work the battery and starter have to do and may make it start easier? theory is the gears behind the clutch plates will not be moving?